Strat Strap Pin - Advice Request

bwets

The hole for my strap pin (not sure that's the correct terminology but hopefully you know what I mean) has become too big for the screw. Here's a picture to help with my explanation:
http://imgur.com/jsi4JI1


There are two holes at the bottom of the guitar. What do you guys think is the best option for me?

1. Use the other hole with the same pin. **I'm worried about this though because I don't want the same thing to happen again**
2. Get a new pin. From where?
   
3. Get strap locks. But which ones? (I know nothing about them)
4. Something else.
   

 And out of interest which is the original hole? It's a '93 Fender American Standard.

Thank you.

ICBM

The original hole is the one on the left.

Get some white PVA wood glue and some toothpicks - one is enough usually.

Stand the guitar upright on its headstock. Fill the hole with glue. Break the tooth pick into three pieces and jam them into the hole. Tap in with a hammer if they don't go all the way. Break off any excess length and clean up the glue overspill. Now put the screw and button back immediately with the glue wet. Wipe off any glue if any leaks out round the button.

That will hold it really strongly. It's a shame someone didn't do it before drilling the second hole...

Mkjackary

Sometimes you don't even need pva, just a couple matchsticks/toothpicks or whatever.

Don't do what my mate did though, and put toothpicks into a chambered guitar's strap hole, he put about 3 in thinking "this is a deep hole" only to find that all the sticks fell into the cavity, and now that guitar will eternally rattle.

ICBM

Mkjackary said:

Don't do what my mate did though, and put toothpicks into a chambered guitar's strap hole, he put about 3 in thinking "this is a deep hole" only to find that all the sticks fell into the cavity, and now that guitar will eternally rattle.

That would annoy me enough that I would find some way to cut through into the cavity via a pickup or control recess and get them out...

Alnico

Mkjackary said:

Sometimes you don't even need pva, just a couple matchsticks/toothpicks or whatever.

Don't do what my mate did though, and put toothpicks into a chambered guitar's strap hole, he put about 3 in thinking "this is a deep hole" only to find that all the sticks fell into the cavity, and now that guitar will eternally rattle.

That made me laugh more than it should have done...ICBM said:

Mkjackary said:

Don't do what my mate did though, and put toothpicks into a chambered guitar's strap hole, he put about 3 in thinking "this is a deep hole" only to find that all the sticks fell into the cavity, and now that guitar will eternally rattle.

That would annoy me enough that I would find some way to cut through into the cavity via a pickup or control recess and get them out...

......and that is SO what i would do !

bwets

Thank you! I shall give it a try soon.

NickL

Straplocks: I can't quite see enough of it in the photo, but that might already be a Schaller straplock compatible button. Fender were definitely fitting them as standard on some USA models at that time (including my '93 Strat Plus).

bwets

I'll admit I was sceptical but the solution worked perfectly. Thank you!

nick_s

ICBM said:

The original hole is the one on the left.

Get some white PVA wood glue and some toothpicks - one is enough usually.

Stand the guitar upright on its headstock. Fill the hole with glue. Break the tooth pick into three pieces and jam them into the hole. Tap in with a hammer if they don't go all the way. Break off any excess length and clean up the glue overspill. Now put the screw and button back immediately with the glue wet. Wipe off any glue if any leaks out round the button.

That will hold it really strongly. It's a shame someone didn't do it before drilling the second hole...

This solution has never failed me when required

SNAKEBITE

I have had two Strats where this happened.

I used wood filler, filled the hole with the filler and screwed the screw back in, wiping the excess spoff away.

Worked a tread.

Although I doubt it would be easy to remove the straplocks I fitted will remain on there for as long as I have the guitar.

ICBM

I've done literally hundreds, possibly thousands, of repairs like it - everything from pickguard screws up to Fender neck bolts. Works every time - you just need to gauge the type and amount of wood to put in, from a matchstick to several toothpicks.

Much easier and actually better than the supposedly 'proper' method of drilling out, dowelling, and redrilling. The only exception is neck bolt holes, which can be drilled and a side-cut maple dowel fitted if the hole has been really opened out too large - but it must be a side-cut dowel or it's weak.

The key is to put the screw back in with the glue still wet and no drilling, so it tightly compresses the wood fibres and the glue and creates a really solid bond.

SNAKEBITE

I struggled with the matchstick method for some reason, it just wouldn't go tight enough, and I really do appreciate a tight hole.

ICBM

SNAKEBITE said:

I struggled with the matchstick method for some reason, it just wouldn't go tight enough, and I really do appreciate a tight hole.

Matchsticks are generally too weak for a strap button, you really need toothpicks. Matchsticks are perfect for pickguard screws, and surprisingly for machineheads (you need to shave them down slightly), probably because the thread is small enough that even the weaker softwood grips it well - a toothpick makes it too hard to get the screw in.

SNAKEBITE

Thanks, hopefully I'll never need to do it again, but I will bear it in mind.

FelineGuitars

Useful info if you have a drill and selection of drill bits

Most cocktail sticks (at least decent ones) are 2mm diameter....these are often the same as round toothpicks.
Barbeque/Satay skewers are also really hard(bamboo usually) and are usually 3mm , and you can get them in 4mm too
We will often find that a 3mm one is good fit for the strap button hole if not enlarged, otherwise we would go for 4 mm one
Drill out the hole with the drill that closely matches the dowel you will use 
Coat in PVA or tightbond and tap into place, and leave to dry
Trim skewer and make flush
Use bradal or awl to spike pilot for drill bit to go in 

Drill with correct size for the screw you will be using - usually a 3mm

We do the Dunlop straplock ready buttons which are really good even without the special strap fitting as they are a big size button (and also work great with Grolsch rubber seals)

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Jim-Dunlop-Straplock-ready-buttons-dual-design-new-/170658783732