Is there a way to avoid getting stabbed when changing strings...

ICBM

Rocker said:

Thanks @ICBM, is there a similar way to string up Fender guitars (with slotted machines)?

That's a bit trickier because you need to add length to increase the break angle, particularly on the G string.

The way I do it is:

Low E - pull tight and cut 2" beyond the post (ie level with the D post), poke down the hole and wind on *upwards*. This keeps the break angle lower and tends to reduce the problem of it sticking in the nut on a trem-bridge Strat. On a Tele I often just wind it on normally.
A - same as the E (ie level with the G post) but wind on normally (downwards).
D - same as the A but 3" beyond, ie level with the high E post.
G - same but about 5" beyond - the same as the distance along all six posts.
B and high E - only 2" beyond the post, but poke down the hole, then take the string half a turn the *wrong* way round the post, back across the slot and then wind on normally.

Voxman

Reading this thread I was thinking of getting locking tuners for my 2010 strat and 88 telecaster.  Much easier to string and better tuning stability.  I'd get Fender ones to be sure of easy exact drop in fit and to keep Fender theme.  Might do strat first.  Around £79 a set so not crazy money.

Rocker

Thanks again @ICBM. Printing out your replies and going to get the page laminated.

sinbaadi

I'll be trying the "back across the post" method next time with my Tele.  I loathe, and I mean pick-it-up-and-throw-it loathe, the b and high e strings on those tuners.  They look great when strung, but the number of times it pops out the top is just infuriating.

ICBM

sinbaadi said:

I'll be trying the "back across the post" method next time with my Tele.  I loathe, and I mean pick-it-up-and-throw-it loathe, the b and high e strings on those tuners.  They look great when strung, but the number of times it pops out the top is just infuriating.

That's exactly what that cures. Those thin strings are so 'slinky' that when only poked down and bent once, the string can slide round the corner and out of the hole. Going back round and across puts two more sharp bends in the string and makes a sort of 'z' shape that tightens up under tension.

I'm almost certainly not the first to think of this but I did work it out myself, after seeing an older player do it by going back across after the first half turn the normal way - I realised it would grip even better if the first half turn was backwards.

Rocker

@ICBM, I put your two suggestions together using MS Word, printed it out and got it laminated:

http://i1230.photobucket.com/albums/ee495/RockerDIY/IMG_0411_zpsmmyzmwqh.jpg

The photo is not great but you might see what I did.  This info is very useful and will get used many times.  Thanks again.

Sassafras

Stab 'em before they stab you.
Attack is the best form of defence.

Voxman

Sassafras said:

Stab 'em before they stab you.
Attack is the best form of defence.

Lol!

stevie

i tried bending the ends of the first, second, and third strings about 1/3 of an inch. worked great till i yanked a third string out of a rolled up set of old strings. the end went all the way up to the bend(in the string) into my left hand finger. ouch! 1/3 of an inch puncture, but just below the skin all the way. i have since given up on that method of not getting poked! 
Comes with the territory.

viz

Richardj said:

Generally between two and three times the length between posts gives enough winds. Less on the thicker wound  than plain strings. Unless of course you tie the strings on.

I personally don't cut the excess off until they are wound on though.  Less chance of stabbing yourself, but more chance of poking it in your eye so makes you a bit more careful!

I have locking tuners on all of mine as it is just so much less hassle to change strings. Pull the string through the hole, lock it, put a little tension on the string and cut the string about five to ten mm from the post. Nice.

Or string it the other way round, even easier!