I think I posted about this before years ago.. but I can’t remember.. and I lost all motivation in trying to find answers..
This might be a little long but I’ll try keeping it simple.
Its a 2017 Cannondale Trail 4 hardtail. Bought new at the time.
The problem:
All is/was fine and normal.
I brake using both front and rear hydraulic disc brakes.
I notice after braking the front disc is rubbing on the pads and the wheel looks like its moved in the forks. Its no longer dead centre inbetween each stanchion.
I loosen the quick release. Reseat the wheel in the drop outs, tighten up.
All looks good, wheel lines up dead centre, the disc lines up inbetween the pads with air each side, no rubbing.
I brake again. The same issue repeats.
The process repeats.
Now the wheel is permanently off centre between the forks, the disc rubs the pads, and yet its seated in the drop outs fine. The qr is tight.
So. Whats highly odd is that about 5 years ago, I bought a cheapish MTB from decathlon.
I had this exact same issue!
At the time I took the bike to a well reviewed local bike store, posted on cycle forums, etc.
The local bike store fixed the secondary issue of the wheel being permanently off centre by dishing it.
This fixed that issue, but the very next time I used the front brake, guess what. The wheels moved again.
I took it back for a refund.
Now its happened on a second bike, it’s clearly either something I’m doing, or something thats just eluding me.
The first bike was a B’twin that had SR Suntour forks.
My current bike is a Cannondale that has SR Suntour forks.
Yep, SR Suntour are cheap/budget forks but they are on like 90% of bikes under £1000, that also have disc brakes.
So its weird the internet doesnt throw this problem up more often right?
Im not very technically minded, and useless at mechanics or fixing things.
But from my research here’s what I know:
Physics and the location of front disc brakes.
The act of braking and the forces transferred from the pads gripping the disc, want to pull the wheel downwards. Ie. Out of the dropouts.
The Qr nut and lever should clamp firmly enough to overcome this.
As front brakes handle the forward momentum, they do a lot of work, more energy is there.
Im 200lbs.
The front brakes probably have a hard time.
My issue with that is there are hundreds of dudes bigger than me, ride their bikes a lot more, and surely wouldnt if they had this issue?
Or would at least post about it on the net..
What I’ve ascertained is:
1. The calliper is not moving.
2. Dishing the wheel fixes the secondary problem but not the root cause.
3. The wheel/hub must be moving in the dropouts.
4. The QR is done up tight as fuck.
5. When I come off the brake, the pads retract normally.
6. The axel is not too long.
People say that the lawyer lips would stop the wheel coming out fully.. but this isnt much reassurance, as surely this shouldnt happen in the first place?
Here are some pics showing stuff:
Notice the paint in the drop outs has come off.
Could this indicate movement?
Could it also be making things worse?
My thought is that now the QR nuts havent got a fully flat surface to tighten against, which surely could cause a loose wheel?
The nuts have teeth that bite into the paint/drop out as normal.
When tightening I can feel the nuts line up with their imprints in the dropout.
Above is how the wheel now sits. I’m guessing, and this is a guess from my limited knowledge, that whatever is happening that is causing the front wheel to move or become loose, is also messing up the dish of the wheel.
Which is what causes the wheel to now sit in the dropouts weirdly.
You can see where I’ve circled, the gap between tyre and fork is not the same each side.
Its slight, but wasnt like this before.
The disc also sat perfectly between the pads.
It doesnt now.
So. Really I’m not sure what to do.
I’m taking it down to a bike shop in Canvey on Saturday. Not that local to me but my mum n stepdad have had good service there.
I emailed them but as expected they need to see it and keep it a few days to look into.
Thing is, I fear any kind of ‘fix’ won’t last, and it will begin happening again. Which is a waste of time and money.
I suppose it doesnt help that we can’t pin down what the actual problem is.
I keep thinking about sucking it up, and having someone fit a new pair of forks with a thru axel (which don’t have drop outs?).. I’d also need a new wheel/hub to be compatible.
Then not even bother fitting the front brake again. Its not like I ride hard or fast.
Thats gonna be another headache. Finding a pair of forks that will fit..
I roughly estimate that could be a grand odd for parts and labour.
A grand could buy a decent new bike, but they all seem to have suntour forks with dropouts at that price point. Some don’t obviously.
Anyway, thanks for reading.
If anyones got any ideas at all, I can take them along with me to the bike shop on Sat when I discuss it with the fella there.
Comments
Any chance the skewer is damaged or the springs have been put on wrong? Seems unlikely of a bike shop didn't fix that.
Though the skewers/nuts could be key thinking about it, as they are whats holding the wheel in place..
its a 5 minute job. Slacken the bolts on the adapter, put the brake on so that it grips the disk and tighten the bolts.
i ask because you are describing turning the QR until the nut fits into the notches created. There shouldn’t be notches, so I think herein lies the problem. And QRs arent designed to be tightened in the traditional sense. Certainly not to the pint where you are indenting the alloy of the fork dropout with the steel of the QR nut. They have a lever action which secures the wheel. The nut needs to be just tight enough to let the lever do its thing.
I would take it into a good shop for appraisal. New forks, 300. They’ll probably fit them for free. Its not a big job. And cheaper than dental work for sure. Good luck!
Thing is a couple of brakes later while riding and the entire issue is back to square one with the wheel having moved.
I think I would insert the axel.
Its either 9mm Qr (is that still a thru axle?)
Or 15x110 or something. I have no idea what that means.
Whats a maxle? Lol.
Wheels 27.5 or 650b is it?
Getting into replacing bits can be tricky due to the number of compatibility options and where that leads. A good shop should be able to advise you as to the options etc though.
https://www.instagram.com/brownsbikes.co.uk/
https://www.facebook.com/brownsbikes.co.uk
https://youtu.be/HdNgVLV4RSg
This was good though because I feared spending time and money on fixes that wont last.
15mm thru axle.
Now go look after your adorable poorly pup, that is far more important.