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In fact, it's perfectly possible to design a heel-end adjuster that doesn't require the neck removing, and the Telecaster is an example - there's an access slot under the pickguard. The problem was that when they changed to the pickguard-mounted electrics for the Strat, they didn't follow through and provide a means of getting to the rod... but it can still be done - my Aria is a good example, there's a routed channel and a notch in the pickguard. You can just about create enough of a recess in the guard even on a Fender.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
To be honest I think it's a hideously ugly solution, although it's even worse the way Fender did it with a bit of fingerboard on either side. But it does at least work well.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
On my oldish Jazzmaster there's a wee crescent shaped notch carved out from the scratchplate so as you can fit a flat screwdriver and make quarter terms of th very slightly exposed Philips Head trussrod access, much easier to do I imagine if you loosen the neck screws and tilt it. I've seen this on other vintage Fenders too.
Edit: this is probably the wrong way to to do things. I let my tech do this kind of thing.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
Intrigued by this as I've searched for this answer a lot and asked the question before but this is the first time anyone's suggested a downside to the headstock end access.
As p90fool said, if you see it in cross-section it’s very obvious how much wood has been taken out - in some cases the thickness between the bottom of the channel and the back of the neck is almost paper thin. Overall it removes about a third of the neck cross-section, exactly at the point the neck is already weakest due to the shape and the change of grain direction.
Other companies do use smaller cavities, but any removal of wood at all is worse than not doing - even a Fender neck is weakest there, if you look at it from the side it should be obvious why.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
But with Fenders, especially the P bass with the neck being so thick to begin with, is it the case that technically it's weaker but in reality it's redundant?
Or do P Bass necks snap at that point? And if so, do the ones with headstock truss access snap more often?
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
I think though, given how rare it seems to be a problem at all, I'd definitely prefer the hugely greater convenience of the headstock adjustment. Though, as has been mentioned, the MM wheel is the best of both worlds.
On a Strat I'm one of those weird ones who prefer the wheel at the end of the neck as it makes the headstock look so clean, much prefer the design on my Elite