Completely ballsed up drilling a tele control plate today. Drilled it in place without the rather large freeway switch in place and when I fitted it I had to re drill one of the holes for it to line up with the switch in place. Unfortunately I managed to bugger that up and when I screw the plate down I have a 1mm gap along half of the plate that I can see into the cavity. The problem I now have is 2 x 2.4mm holes about 2mm apart but I need the 2.4mm hole between the holes. So I need to fill both these holes and drill between them. Any advice gladly received.
Comments
https://houseofglues.com/j-b-weld-kwikwood-epoxy-putty/
Ian
Lowering my expectations has succeeded beyond my wildest dreams.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
Some control cavities are longer than others. I found that the switch fitted perfectly into a Squier Silver Series Telecaster. The same was not true of a Fender AVRI model.
This week, I have been mostly hacking into a G&L Tribute series ASAT Classic. To give myself the option of installing a Freeway 3B3 selector switch, I have enlarged the control cavity slightly.
If you are one of those Tele players who reverses the control plate, square up the corner of the control cavity nearest the jack socket.
Thanks again all
Thinking back, I think that the control plate of the Squier Silver Series T may have been Metric rather than Imperial. The switch slot and screw holes would only need to be 2mm further towards the jack socket to fit tidily.
On the AVRI Telecaster, I got around the problem by forgoing the series, out of phase pickuo combination. I used a Schaller Megaswitch M, circuit SS3.
On Shultz-era American Telecasters, the other end of the Freeway 3B3 switch may foul on the step in the control cavity floor.