TheFretboard DIY Pedalboard Kits Gallery Thread

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  • digitalscreamdigitalscream Frets: 28008
    Can anyone tell be the dimensions of the end supports? I'd like to know the depth and how high the front and back are.
    229mm deep, 26.73mm wide (middle one is 25.47mm), 66mm at highest point (back), 25.12mm at lowest (front).
    <space for hire>
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  • rickd2112arickd2112a Frets: 50
    Thank you 

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  • skunkwerxskunkwerx Frets: 7024
    Righto, so I finished the build today.. minus the feet which I still need to go buy.. 

    I painted the plaque and screw heads orange, then glued the plaque in to place using superglue. 

    Third & final coat of clear varnish went on. Dried in approximately 0.03 of a second in the heat. 



    Seems a shame to cover all that orange in velcro.. and all I had in the house was 2" velcro.. so far too wide anyway. 



    A steel rule and a small rotary cutter made short work of
    that.. but.. decided to add some flair to the velcro situation.. 




    V for Victory.. amplification.. another brand who 100% endorses this build alongside Orange. 

    Eyeballed that shit and stuck it down. The clear coat making a nice surface for adhesion. 



    Next I re-drilled all the holes quickly just to clear them
    of dry varnish and made sure they all lined up in the frames. One didnt so I re-drilled it. 

    Screwed it all together, added some orange led fairy lights, carefully routing the wire and hot melt gluing it to the underside of the slats.. et voila: 






    Job done. 
    The only easy day, was yesterday...
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  • digitalscreamdigitalscream Frets: 28008
    @skunkwerx - mate, you've outdone yourself. That's excellent work, and the lighting....oh boy.

    The original plan for the demo board I put together for the show was actually to put a white LED behind the logo plate on the side, I just kinda ran out of time to get it done properly. I think I definitely like your idea more, though :)

    Incidentally, if you want cleaner lines on top, maybe try using Dual Lock instead of Velcro? Only a minor suggestion, though, it looks absolutely ace as it is.
    <space for hire>
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  • skunkwerxskunkwerx Frets: 7024
    @skunkwerx - mate, you've outdone yourself. That's excellent work, and the lighting....oh boy.

    The original plan for the demo board I put together for the show was actually to put a white LED behind the logo plate on the side, I just kinda ran out of time to get it done properly. I think I definitely like your idea more, though :)

    Incidentally, if you want cleaner lines on top, maybe try using Dual Lock instead of Velcro? Only a minor suggestion, though, it looks absolutely ace as it is.
    Ah thanks bud, really appreciate that! 

    Haha you know what I had the same thought.. moments after I glued the logo plate on!! I actually got a big drill bit and drilled a hole in the frame just under one of the slats... then remembered the plate had a v shaped back so there wouldnt be any cavity to drill into.. but I was going to feed some excess leds in there and light the logo up. 

    But the hole was a good place to stow some of the excess wiring from the fairy lights so it wasnt totally wasted. 

    Aye cheers for the suggestion, I'll have to check that dual lock out, I've not used it before!
    The only easy day, was yesterday...
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  • skunkwerxskunkwerx Frets: 7024
    Thanks again for making these @digitalscream :) had great fun putting this together.
    The only easy day, was yesterday...
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  • skunkwerxskunkwerx Frets: 7024
    The underside is really quite rough haha.. But I thought, being a more portable board/one I'll likely be unplugging often, I'll probably not bother with neatly routing cables underneath it anyway. 

    Can see the drill hole there from my experiments to reach the back of the plate, then used to hide some extra wiring. 





    The fairy lights I used are these ones: 
    https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B0B7NH2ZB5?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

    3 metre, £3.99 currently. The AAA battery box is a bit
    of an eyesore but I covered the topside of it with velcro so it looks less offensive haha. 

    It also fits in the square hole in the centre support. Could make it properly secure with some cable ties or string or something. 

    The length at 3 metre was actually perfect. Happy accident as I didnt bother thinking about length before I ordered them. 

    This board is 16" wide (approx) from the inside of the end pieces and the lights were long enough to go twice on each row. 

    I thought about how to attach.. I was going to use stick on cable tie mounts but, didnt have any spare so I went with a stick of hot melt glue instead. Figured if the leds fail or the box corrodes, the wiring can still be removed. 
    The only easy day, was yesterday...
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  • BrioBrio Frets: 2244
    edited August 2
    Well that has certainly humbled my effort I sort of completed yesterday.
     A quick study of the pics will show only half the screws are in.
    This is because at 600mm the slats are too short to make a long enough board to mount my loved side jack pedals. That's YOU Chase Bliss, darn your lovely sounds and versatility...
    As you can see this results in a Tonex rotated 90° and that really triggers my OCD.
    New wood will be purchased tomorrow.



    On a more positive note a Thomman ISO10-AC Pro fits just under the board. Cheap, lots of power and three switchable outs with seven 9V. Also a mains lead, not a wall wart.
    I still double the outs to current critical devices like the Tonex and my GT100core.
    When I say 'just fits' I mean the bottom edge of the PSU is level with the bottom of the board.
    Feet will be purchased today.


    Cable management is a mess and apart from putting the clips in will remain so as the board will change depending on the occasion. This is the range of stuff that regularly gets swapped in depending on my mood on any given day.
    There are more in the cupboard.


    I also use a small second board for control when actually (very occasionally) gigging.
    An FS-6 and a couple of FS-7s for when I have the Boss GTK Core on the board or want to easily change Tonex presets, plus one for the looper as I hate the double tap to stop feature on the RC-5. The faves and OBNE Expression ramper really help get the most from the Mood or even the Cloudburst and Brig.
    I'll make a tidy linking snake when I work out what I want most of the time.


    Thanks again for doing this. It prompted me to get off my arse and change things. Also prompted me to sell stuff I haven't used in a while.

    Please excuse the rug. Borrowed from a 1980s readers' wives photoshoot...

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  • skunkwerxskunkwerx Frets: 7024
    Brio said:
    Well that has certainly humbled my effort I sort of completed yesterday.
     A qiuck study of the pics will show only half the screws are in.
    This is because at 600mm the slats are too short to make a long enough board to mount my loved side jack pedals. That's YOU Chase Bliss, darn your lovely sounds and versatility...
    As you can see this results in a Tonex rotated 90° and that really triggers my OCD.
    New wood will be purchased tomorrow.



    On a more positive note a Thomman ISO110-AC Pro fits just under the board. Cheap, lots of power and three switchable outs with seven 9V. Also a mains lead, not a wall wart.
    I still double the outs to current critical devices like the Tonex and my GT100core.
    When I say 'just fits' I mean the bottom edge of the PSU is level with the bottom of the board.
    Feet will be purchased today.


    Cable management is a mess and apart from putting the clips in will remain so as the board will change depending on the occasion. This is the range of stuff that regularly gets swapped in depending on my mood on any given day.
    There are more in the cupboard.


    I also use a small second board for control when actually (very occasionally) gigging.
    An FS-6 and a couple of FS-7s for when I have the Boss GTK Core on the board or want to easily change Tonex presets, plus one for the looper as I hate the double tap to stop feature on the RC-5. The faves and OBNE Expression ramper really help get the most from the Mood or even the Cloudburst and Brig.
    I'll make a tidy linking snake when I work out what I want most of the time.


    Thanks again for doing this. It prompted me to get off my arse and change things. Also prompted me to sell stuff I haven't used in a while.

    Please excuse the rug. Borrowed from a 1980s readers' wives photoshoot...

    Looking good mate! Haha yeah I'm the same with sideways pedals, it would bug me too. 
    The only easy day, was yesterday...
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  • BrioBrio Frets: 2244
    Ta.
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  • digitalscreamdigitalscream Frets: 28008
    Brio said:

    This is because at 600mm the slats are too short to make a long enough board to mount my loved side jack pedals. That's YOU Chase Bliss, darn your lovely sounds and versatility...
    You've just given me a crazy idea for the Birmingham show next year...
    <space for hire>
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  • BrioBrio Frets: 2244
    I'm visualising a one pedal wide, 2 metre deep board. Or one where alternative pedals rotate into place from a revolver like chamber. :-)
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  • digitalscreamdigitalscream Frets: 28008
    Brio said:
    I'm visualising a one pedal wide, 2 metre deep board. Or one where alternative pedals rotate into place from a revolver like chamber. :-)
    Actually, not too far from the truth.
    <space for hire>
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  • BrioBrio Frets: 2244
    edited August 1
    Oooh. A standardised pedal caddy with power and in/out connectors that lock into tracks on the board.
    Hmm. Can you still buy that copper tape with adhesive on one side to make the contacts? I must check ....
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  • skunkwerxskunkwerx Frets: 7024
    edited August 1
    I've come up with an invention.. 



    The coloured blocks are your pedals, right, so they stick on to the inside of the wheel with standard velcro. 

    The wheel rotates, allowing you to have a massive amount of pedals without ever needing to stomp in a different location.

    An small engine and control module would be attached (not shown), somehow, which will power the wheel. 

    Obviously this is an early idea, a prototype as such but the only downside (apart from cables which I'll get to in a minute) is that the wheel will not be controllable so its kind of sucky if you need a certain pedal at a certain time. It could sometimes enter reverse also. 


    The cable issue is a problem but I was thinking to make it so that all your pedals and amp plugs into the wheel and also sits inside the wheel, you then stand inside it too, and the wheel itself has a plug from its base which will go to the mains.

    The wheel will still spin, otherwise the whole thing is pointless tbh, although I can't actually see the point in the wheel spinning if you're inside it because it kind of defeats the reason it was invented in the first place. 

    The only easy day, was yesterday...
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  • BrioBrio Frets: 2244
    Make it a bigger wheel so you could jog inside it and get fit whilst playing. Like a rocking hamster.
    Hmm. Wonder if Slim wants to endorse it?
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  • TTonyTTony Frets: 28412
    Brio said:
    Or one where alternative pedals rotate into place from a revolver like chamber. :-)
    All designed and ready to go ...




    ;)
    Having trouble posting images here?  This might help.
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  • TimmyOTimmyO Frets: 8092
    skunkwerx said:
    Righto, so I finished the build today.. minus the feet which I still need to go buy.. 

    I painted the plaque and screw heads orange, then glued the plaque in to place using superglue. 

    Third & final coat of clear varnish went on. Dried in approximately 0.03 of a second in the heat. 



    Seems a shame to cover all that orange in velcro.. and all I had in the house was 2" velcro.. so far too wide anyway. 



    A steel rule and a small rotary cutter made short work of
    that.. but.. decided to add some flair to the velcro situation.. 




    V for Victory.. amplification.. another brand who 100% endorses this build alongside Orange. 

    Eyeballed that shit and stuck it down. The clear coat making a nice surface for adhesion. 



    Next I re-drilled all the holes quickly just to clear them
    of dry varnish and made sure they all lined up in the frames. One didnt so I re-drilled it. 

    Screwed it all together, added some orange led fairy lights, carefully routing the wire and hot melt gluing it to the underside of the slats.. et voila: 






    Job done. 
    Outstanding. Very impressed mate 
    Red ones are better. 
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