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Basically, it makes the trem much easier to set up - screw each screw down until it just starts to move the plate, then ease is back 1/8th turn or so. Repeat across all 6 and it pivots smoothly on all 6 screws, reducing wear.
Then set the spring tension for however much pitch raise you want.
Angling the springs makes no difference. Angling the claw won't either - the spring tension from the 3 springs is being applied to a rigid structure, and so is even across the unit.
Tightening the bass side so it "pulls more" loosens the treble side as the bridge angles - which I don't think can be a good thing, especially against 2 (or 6) pivot points.
But I could be wrong. I would definitely consider a wudtone plate, though - the vintage style one is 30 quid, so it's not hugely expensive. The block is the bit that really adds to the cost. The wudtone trem is just really easy to set up - I don't know about fixing problems (there is debate as to whether there were any) but it makes the actual set up very simple.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
Charlie Chandlers book is worth a read too
*An Official Foo-Approved guitarist since Sept 2023.
The way I have always done it is to remove the strings and springs and lay the guitar (face up) on a table.
Gently turn each of the six screws until they lift the rear edge of the bridge plate off the face of the guitar - then back it off, until the bridge lies flat against the body again.
You should now find the the arm will move the trem assembly freely, whilst ensuring when pulled back that the front edge of the bridge plate cannot rise up the screws, affecting return to pitch.
The middle screws do not negatively influence return to pitch in any way if they are adjusted as I have described.