C18Q1 Learn electronics and build a pedal

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  • Adam_MDAdam_MD Frets: 2683
    edited January 13
    Philtre said:
    Cheers, @Danny1969 !

    I've soldered what I can onto the board. Now I'm waiting for the Tayda delivery which, I hope, should have a couple of small factor 1uF caps - smaller than the monster-sized ones I used on the breadboard!
    If you ordered the grey arcotronics or red wimas they’ll fit fine.  
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  • Adam_MDAdam_MD Frets: 2683
    Philtre said:
    Yeah they’ll be fine I’ve used those before.  They’re about as tall as you can fit in a 1590b
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  • PhiltrePhiltre Frets: 613
    edited January 13
    Thanks, @Adam_MD good to know.

    Some things I've learnt so far about this:
    • Plan ahead when ordering components (itching to get going, but I'm waiting on Tayda)
    • Go straight to veroboard. The veroboard I put together today is tiny compared to the breadboard prototype!
    • Check the size of your capacitors!
    • So far I've spent about £120 on components, breadboards, and tools, drill bits, hole punch, enclosures, etc - less than the price of a Timmy pedal, right? And, I can build more as I've bought more than for one pedal.
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  • Danny1969Danny1969 Frets: 3429
    I had a few hours spare today so I got a cheap £3 Chinese box drilled out and populated it with the basic bits needed for a Timmy. However when it came time to build the circuit I actually built the Amp11 version, or rather the Amp11 overdrive part without the boost. This is basically just built very quickly on Veroboard.... as this is an experimental build I chose to build the clipping side of things on a smaller separate bit of Vero so I can more easily play around with more diode options





    There are many substitutions of components but none of them will make much of a difference except in the range where things happen pot wise 

    Tomorrow I will hook it up to my Hot Rod and have a tinker. What I'm after is something that compliments that particular amp well. Once I'm happy with the circuit I'll get a painted box and do a proper job of it 
    www.2020studios.co.uk 
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  • PhiltrePhiltre Frets: 613
    @Danny1969 Interesting. Good to see a pedal under construction. I'll post pics of mine just as soon as I have the rest of the components.
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  • Danny1969Danny1969 Frets: 3429
    @Philtre ; This Lovepedal Amp 11 circuit sounds pretty darn good .... I mean really good, the best overdrive I have heard I would say. Even running straight into a solidstate clean amp it sounds good. The bass cut and  tone control work well and with the drive wound down it's a great clean boost. This is my costing :-1: 

    Box - Ebay - China £3
    Veroboard  - Eaby £1
    Jacks - CPC 90p for 2
    Pots - CPC - £2.40 for 4
    DC in - Ebay £1
    DPDT footswitch - Ebay £2
    Veroboard Ebay £1
    opamp - CPC 43p
    LED - CPC 9p
    Resistors - Ebay 20p
    Caps - Ebay £1

    So less than £15 for a truly great sounding OD, I'm pretty pleased with that but I like it so much I'm gonna build another one with a painted box, graphics, high quality footswitch and a secret weapon 

    www.2020studios.co.uk 
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  • PhiltrePhiltre Frets: 613
    @Danny1969 OK, I'll breadboard one up and give it a listen. Did you use a 4559 opamp?

    I'm still waiting on my parts from Tayda for the enclosure, pots, jacks, knobs and a couple of capacitors (1uF). I'm starting to get itchy to get this Timmy into a box so I can start on another one.
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  • Danny1969Danny1969 Frets: 3429
    Philtre said:
    @Danny1969 OK, I'll breadboard one up and give it a listen. Did you use a 4559 opamp?

    I'm still waiting on my parts from Tayda for the enclosure, pots, jacks, knobs and a couple of capacitors (1uF). I'm starting to get itchy to get this Timmy into a box so I can start on another one.
    No I used a 4556, in this application the type of opamp makes very little difference as the bandwidth required and output drive current is well within the capabilities even the most modest of opamps. 

    Are you using the 1uf to block the DC on the output (last cap on the right of the schemetic) any value between 470n and 10uf be fine, doesn't need to be bipolar as there's a DC bias to the left of it 
    www.2020studios.co.uk 
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  • aord43aord43 Frets: 280
    Danny1969 said:
    @Philtre ; This Lovepedal Amp 11 circuit sounds pretty darn good .... I mean really good, the best overdrive I have heard I would say. Even running straight into a solidstate clean amp it sounds good. The bass cut and  tone control work well and with the drive wound down it's a great clean boost. This is my costing :-1: 

    Box - Ebay - China £3
    Veroboard  - Eaby £1
    Jacks - CPC 90p for 2
    Pots - CPC - £2.40 for 4
    DC in - Ebay £1
    DPDT footswitch - Ebay £2
    Veroboard Ebay £1
    opamp - CPC 43p
    LED - CPC 9p
    Resistors - Ebay 20p
    Caps - Ebay £1

    So less than £15 for a truly great sounding OD, I'm pretty pleased with that but I like it so much I'm gonna build another one with a painted box, graphics, high quality footswitch and a secret weapon 

    Nice, I might look it up and compare with my TS clone, which doesn't sound as good as I'd hoped.  Where did you get the layout/circuit, was it tagboardeffects?
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  • PhiltrePhiltre Frets: 613
    edited January 15
    @Danny1969 There are two 1uF non-polarised caps - one on the Bass cut pot and one on the output:

    https://ibb.co/m3iPbb
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  • Danny1969Danny1969 Frets: 3429
    Philtre said:
    @Danny1969 There are two 1uF non-polarised caps - one on the Bass cut pot and one on the output:

    https://ibb.co/m3iPbb
    Yeah to keep the filter value of the bass cut you do need to keep the 1uf value .... there is a dc bias there suitable for a electrolytic cap but the tolerances on these caps are a bit wide - hence spec'ing a bipolar ... I used a 1uf electrolytic myself there though and a 4.7uf on the output 
    www.2020studios.co.uk 
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  • Danny1969Danny1969 Frets: 3429
    You can also lose half the stuff in the power supply, I didn't use the 100R resistor or the 100N decoupling cap and only one reservoir cap  ..... they won't do anything in this application although good house keeping in other designs 
    www.2020studios.co.uk 
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  • Danny1969Danny1969 Frets: 3429
    aord43 said:
    Danny1969 said:
    @Philtre ; This Lovepedal Amp 11 circuit sounds pretty darn good .... I mean really good, the best overdrive I have heard I would say. Even running straight into a solidstate clean amp it sounds good. The bass cut and  tone control work well and with the drive wound down it's a great clean boost. This is my costing :-1: 

    Box - Ebay - China £3
    Veroboard  - Eaby £1
    Jacks - CPC 90p for 2
    Pots - CPC - £2.40 for 4
    DC in - Ebay £1
    DPDT footswitch - Ebay £2
    Veroboard Ebay £1
    opamp - CPC 43p
    LED - CPC 9p
    Resistors - Ebay 20p
    Caps - Ebay £1

    So less than £15 for a truly great sounding OD, I'm pretty pleased with that but I like it so much I'm gonna build another one with a painted box, graphics, high quality footswitch and a secret weapon 

    Nice, I might look it up and compare with my TS clone, which doesn't sound as good as I'd hoped.  Where did you get the layout/circuit, was it tagboardeffects?
    I found it here mate http://revolutiondeux.blogspot.co.uk/2012/01/lovepedal-amp-eleven.html
    www.2020studios.co.uk 
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  • Adam_MDAdam_MD Frets: 2683
    If you’re building a Timmy or the amp 11 version it’s worthwhile building a cot50 (Electra distortion) as well and putting them in the same box.  I’m not a huge fan of the cot50 as a boost I usually prefer a SHO but it works very well with this circuit.

    My Timmy and Tim clones are on vero but used pcbs for this one.










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  • PhiltrePhiltre Frets: 613
    edited January 17
    I'm still waiting for the Tayda shipment, but in the meantime I cut the veroboad and soldered the main components on.

    But I don't think it will fit into a 1590B enclosure. Here's a pic of the vero, a capacitor that's yet to be soldered on (actually there are two of these to go on) a pot and the mini switch that will sit between the 4 pots:

    Image2

    Because of the two 47uF electrolytic caps and the (red) wima 1uF caps that will be soldered on, the overall height of the components + vero is about 15mm. The pots will use about 10mm height when in the enclosure so that would be 25mm needed if the vero sits on top of the pots. The inside of the 1590B is 25mm, so no clearance!

    I guess I could re-do the 47uF electrolytic caps and bend them down but I can't do that for the red 1uF caps, and there is also a tall green cap on there too below left of the IC socket.
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  • Danny1969Danny1969 Frets: 3429
    Nice neat job, looks great

    Solder the output cap onto the output jack
    Solder the bass cut cap onto the pot

    Neither cap needs to be on the board

    Why's that green cap so big, what voltage is it 400V or something ?
    www.2020studios.co.uk 
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  • PhiltrePhiltre Frets: 613
    @Danny1969 Good idea! But I still will have to re-do the 47uf electrolytics with a longer lead length so I can bend them down. The green cap is 39nF 100v, it was the only type that Bitsbox had in 39nF - https://www.bitsbox.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=65_76_78&products_id=371
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  • Danny1969Danny1969 Frets: 3429
    Ah Ok 

    You didn't need a 39nf cap, 40nf is the common garden value and there will be no difference as like resistors caps are made to a tolerance ... your 39n cap could be 5% each way, so 40n with 5% is close enough 

    One 47uf cap can go on the DC socket, the other one doesn't need to be anywhere near 4uf ... probably get away with nothing there unless your gonna run the pedal off the worse unregulated pound shop power supply
    www.2020studios.co.uk 
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  • PhiltrePhiltre Frets: 613
    edited January 17
    Actually, I should get away with it. Being the impatient sort of guy that I am I ordered a couple of Hammond 1590B enclosures from RS components and they arrived today. So, to simulate things, I put a 11mm high plastic box in the enclosure to simulate the pot heights and laid the veroboard on top of that with some thin bubble wrap to represent foam/insulation - the enclosure lid went on with some clearance because it is slightly recessed. So I reckon if I desolder the existing tall caps and bend them down slightly I'll be able to regain another 2mm in height and that should do it.
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  • PhiltrePhiltre Frets: 613
    Well, I took the veroboard, took a deep breath and blew really hard on it and, like a gale force wind that blows down trees, the components leant over giving me the clearance I'll need. The red 1uF caps are the tallest components now.


    wind
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  • Adam_MDAdam_MD Frets: 2683
    Looking good @Philtre ;
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  • PhiltrePhiltre Frets: 613
    edited January 17
    So, until the pots, knobs, led, power socket and in/out sockets arrive from Tayda I thought I'd wire up the veroboard to a temporary arrangement on a breadboard and use the trim-pots...

    ...and it worked first time! :-)

    Image1

    I think it must be beer o'clock!
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  • Danny1969Danny1969 Frets: 3429
    That's a great job, a lot of experienced guys hooks up and  find it doesn't work first time because of some silly mistake like a tiny solder bridge short or something similar .... there's been many a time mine haven't worked first time


    www.2020studios.co.uk 
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  • PhiltrePhiltre Frets: 613
    Thanks for the support and encouragement @Danny1969 and @Adam_MD! Without yours and the other people in this thread's advice I wouldn't have made it this far. :-)
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  • PhiltrePhiltre Frets: 613
    edited January 19
    Still no delivery from Tayda (it's been 12 days since I ordered) so I got a little impatient and ordered a bunch of stuff from Bitsbox.

    It took me a long time figuring out if all my components and the veroboard would fit inside of a 1590B enclosure, and I wasn't sure what the best layout would be so I made one out of cardboard:

    Image1


    Image2

    This allowed me to do a sanity check because I didn't want to mess up a nice new Hammond box. So, this afternoon I got to use my new centre punch and stepped drill bit and drilled out the real thing:

    Image3

    Now, before I go ahead and solder it all in I want to decorate the enclosure and this is where I need some advice. I'm going to go for the cheesy retro effect and use Posca Pens (https://www.cultpens.com/c/q/brands/uni-ball/uni-markers/uni-posca-markers) to draw directly on the aluminium enclosure and then seal it. So my questions are:
    • Should I sand or treat the aluminium enclosure first?
    • What type of lacquer or sealant should I use to finish it off? A spray would be preferable.

    Edit - another question:

    • I need to get some more solder - what do folk recommend? (I don't want lead-free)
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  • PhiltrePhiltre Frets: 613
    edited January 20
    Changed my mind about painting directly on the aluminium enclosure. So it was off to B&Q for some Rustoleum primer:

    r
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  • Danny1969Danny1969 Frets: 3429
    The cardboard mock up is an excellent idea ... there's been many a time I should have done that before I cocked things up. 

    Finishing a pedal is probably the most time consuming aspect, that's why I generally just buy a painted box now and put the transfer on. 
    A painted 1590B box from CPC is £10.87 with free delivery 
    www.2020studios.co.uk 
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  • PhiltrePhiltre Frets: 613
    Danny1969 said:

    Finishing a pedal is probably the most time consuming aspect, that's why I generally just buy a painted box now and put the transfer on. 
    A painted 1590B box from CPC is £10.87 with free delivery 
    Tell me about it. ;-) I just spent quite a few quid on primer, paint and clear coat. I have a feeling all my pedals are going to be the same colour. Once I've used this stuff up I'm going pre-painted.
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  • Adam_MDAdam_MD Frets: 2683
    Yup powder coated plus a decal and envirotex is definitely the way to go.  
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