Unfinished Necks and maintenance

chenzmanchenzman Frets: 193
Hi all,

I'm looking for some help/recommendations on keeping unfinished necks in decent working order, especially feel.

I have both a Musicman JP and Charvel So Cal that are suffering with very dry/rough feeling necks.

During the restringing process I always clean and treat the fretboards using either Ernie Ball Wonder Wipes or Dunlop fingerboard treatment.

I also clean the rear of the neck with Oil Soap and treat with tru-oil and wax as per ernie balls site.

This does the job at first but after a little while, then feels horrible. The rear of the neck and also the fingerboard at times can feel rough, dry and generally not great. Is this just a trait of raw/unfinished necks? Am I just used to painted/satin necks too much?

Any help would be appreciated as I feel I'm sometimes neglecting these guitars due to the playability.

Cheers

Vince

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Comments

  • mike_lmike_l Frets: 5700
    I just use some Keyser guitar polish, the neck on my So-Cal feels lovely.

    Ringleader of the Cambridge cartel, pedal champ and king of the dirt boxes (down to 21) 

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  • I've not used the stuff you mentioned, but the disappointing results you are getting may be down to the products containing Lemon Oil, it's acidity may be causing that.

    I use this stuff.



    You can use it on Unfinished Maple, Rosewood and Ebony boards. I got mine from Bass Direct, but others stock it too. The back part of my Wolfgang neck had some rough spots, I gave it a light rub with some 1000 grade sandpaper, it's as smooth as silk now, I did not rub the Fretboard though, not advisable I think.
    Only a Fool Would Say That.
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  • chenzmanchenzman Frets: 193
    Thanks for the replies do far, however the issue isn't really with the Fretboard as I only use the wonder wipes(which don't contain lemon oil) on that and not on the back of the neck.

    The back of the neck is my biggest issue, feeling rough and dry.

    Musicman suggest the tru-oil(http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B002G1NYZY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1390165793&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX110_SY165) and wax to treat the back of the neck, maybe I'm not using enough? Maybe it needs further coats?
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  • WezVWezV Frets: 16672

    Light oil finishes like danish oil will feel rough after a time if not properly maintained.   Tru-oil is not a light oil finish and should last longer, but roughness can still reappear after a time especially if you have more acidic sweat.  danish tended to need re-working once or twice in the first year, but less so after that.

    tru-oil and wax should work great for you so i wonder if the technique is slightly off.

    Simplest fix:

    1) rub back with dry 0000 liberon wire wool till smooth.

    2) Apply a coat or two of tru-oil and let dry

    3) rub back with wire wool and wax  - keep going really working it in.

    4) buff with soft cloth

     

    Less simple, more mess - but less ongoing maintenance:

    1) take the neck off

    2) wetsand all wood areas with tru-oil and 800 grit+ wet and dry until a sludge forms.

    3) buff off the sludge with a soft cloth - it will feel super sleek

    4) repeat step 2 & 3 with higher grit

    5) apply wax with 0000 liberon wire wool, really work it in

    6) buff off with a soft cloth

     

    This is generally quite hardwearing and feels great

     

     

    The good news is that the more you do now, the less it should need it moving forward as a permenant patina will develop on the neck

     

     

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  • xwolf5150xwolf5150 Frets: 180
    edited January 2014
    I've owned my Silhouette Special for 8 yrs and other than wiping after a gig all I've ever done is use guitar polish.
    Still feels smooth.
    I think Ball owners worry too much.
    Just play the thing........
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  • chenzmanchenzman Frets: 193
    Thanks Wez, I'll take that on board. Maybe I just need to apply a couple of layers and It will do the job
    find
    WezV;138117" said:
    Light oil finishes like danish oil will feel rough after a time if not properly maintained.   Tru-oil is not a light oil finish and should last longer, but roughness can still reappear after a time especially if you have more acidic sweat.  danish tended to need re-working once or twice in the first year, but less so after that.tru-oil and wax should work great for you so i wonder if the technique is slightly off.Simplest fix:1) rub back with dry 0000 liberon wire wool till smooth.2) Apply a coat or two of tru-oil and let dry3) rub back with wire wool and wax  - keep going really working it in.4) buff with soft cloth Less simple, more mess - but less ongoing maintenance:1) take the neck off2) wetsand all wood areas with tru-oil and 800 grit+ wet and dry until a sludge forms.3) buff off the sludge with a soft cloth - it will feel super sleek4) repeat step 2 & 3 with higher grit5) apply wax with 0000 liberon wire wool, really work it in6) buff off with a soft cloth This is generally quite hardwearing and feels great  The good news is that the more you do now, the less it should need it moving forward as a permenant patina will develop on the neck  
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  • chenzmanchenzman Frets: 193
    wolf5150;138393" said:
    I've owned my Silhouette Special for 8 yrs and other than wiping after a gig all I've ever done is use guitar polish.
    Still feels smooth.
    I thing Ball owners worry too much.
    Just play the thing........
    My axis I had was lovely, the neck was great and smooth. I think my Petrucci and especially my charvel need some more TLC and it'll do the job :)

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