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JM build | Pedalboard plans
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JM build | Pedalboard plans
JM build | Pedalboard plans
This should be a really easy fix regardless, even if a new footswitch is needed.
It could be that it had a dead switch replaced by the owner, who then melted the new one (easy to do if you're not used to soldering) and then figured it was beyond him when it still didn't work.
JM build | Pedalboard plans
To find which it is, simply set the pedal to bypass with the bottom open so you can get at the switch, and bridge each of the bypass connections with the tip of a screwdriver while playing through it. The one that makes it work is the bad one.
In this illustration, bridge either the lower two in the left column or the lower two in the middle column.
http://www.muzique.com/news/images/3PDT_3.jpg
Yes, I know this is how probably 99% of true bypass footswitches are wired, as well as most diagrams showing how to do them, but it's *still* wrong!
By sending the bypass through both switch poles in series you double the chance of a switch failure for no good reason.
If it's *not* wired like this but is one of the better schemes and the switch has still failed, you'll need to replace it.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
Here is a close-up of the switch:
JM build | Pedalboard plans
JM build | Pedalboard plans
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
Only thing is that it seems to suck a bit of top end and overall level when bypassed.
JM build | Pedalboard plans
JM build | Pedalboard plans
That's normal, because the input is an open circuit in bypass.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
Do I need it to be connected to both terminals on the right side, or can I simply move it from the middle to the bottom?
JM build | Pedalboard plans
The switch now works, but the tone suck is still there. Should I resolder all the pins?
JM build | Pedalboard plans
Try bridging the other two bypass contacts (lower left pair) with a screwdriver or something. If the tone suck goes away you're going to need to replace the switch because you can't jumper both sides.
If it's not that the problem is somewhere else. Do the jacks have shakeproof washers fitted and/or are they properly tight?
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
Here are some gut shots with the new switch installed:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/2P75HJ3iNCNtDRkh9
Sounds fine when engaged but has a lot of tone suck when bypassed.
AFAICS, the jacks are nice and tight.
What else can I try?
JM build | Pedalboard plans