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CTS pots... Been using them the whole time ive been building but I do notice that they do not all seem the same..
Most recently ive been buying the 500k CTS 450 series pots that apparently have an extra 10% tolerance and thus are actually 550k insuring that you get the full 500k output at least..
I definitely did notice that these pots seem more stable and have a really nice taper as where ive had some CTS pots where the taper is so bad that its barely functional as a volume level.
The thing is how do you know what you are being sent? The so called 450 series doesn't have any special serial number or marking from what i can see so when I buy them how do I really know what im getting? I know I can test it with a multi meter and see how fast the resistance goes up and down but is there any other way to tell the difference between the exact pot type you have by looking at them?
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Thanks for that.. It was interesting to look at but those codes seem to be for ordering pots from them.. Im talking about how to identify the code on the pots.. It says CTS 500 (obvious) then 1721 which as far as I know indicates the date it was made not the serial or model number of the pot.
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I'm now going to swap 2 vol back out and see what it's like then, I'm also going to swap caps, just sounds like it's got a blanket over it
I know wd music offer the premium cts 9% tolerance so I'm going to try them, they guarantee at least 500k
I like linear volumes log tones which is hard to find good consistent 500k or above ones to match log ones
It's not very good imo
(formerly customkits)
You can also use much higher value resistors (in the 1M - 10M range) to reduce the effective value of a pot, by connecting them in parallel with the whole track and again using the switch to either connect or disconnect them.
Then you use the switch to change the resistance on the fly while playing, very carefully listening to the sound from right in front of the amp's speaker. You will be able to fairly easily find how much of a difference in pot value is needed before it becomes audible.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
I don't fancy unsoldering the pots again I must say, putting resistors in is much easier
(formerly customkits)
It will actually only seem to drop to about half with a tenth of the pot value in series.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
It would be nice just to get the same pots every time without the hassle of worrying if the taper is good etc
(formerly customkits)
The difference in resistance doesn’t start to get audible until about 25% below and 33% above the ‘spec’ value. While it’s due that higher-quality pots may have a nicer taper, smoother physical action etc, they don’t sound better because they’re ‘more accurate’ or because they have 10% higher resistance.
There is a good reason why the standard manufacturing tolerance on pots is 20%.
You might be able to hear the difference between the two very outer ends of the tolerance range, but 450K to 550K is most likely not audible.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
This is what I want in my pots.. Consistent smooth action and taper. Youd think they would be able to make all of them the same in that regard?
http://www.rabswoodguitars.co.uk/
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Why a company can’t simply continue making a good product in the way they’ve always made it, without trying to constantly find ways to cut corners, I don’t know.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
Well this is one of the reasons I posted this thread. To see what other peoples experience is and know that its not just me
Those 450 series one at the moment seem the most consistent ive seen in a while..
The thing is, is that how is a person meant to know what pots they have been sent? Ive seen serial numbers on CTS pots before that indicate the model.. But the ones I just got only have CTS 500k and the date code.. The only way I will really know is once the guitar is done and playable..
Maybe the actual answer is to stop using CTS pots and find a more consistent maker?
http://www.rabswoodguitars.co.uk/
https://www.facebook.com/RabsWoodGuitars/
My Youtube page
I’m just hoping Switchcraft jacks and CRL switches won’t go the same way.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
In my work with mic pre amps, mixers etc I often add a resistor between the wiper and end lug to achieve a better taper for the application (a basic log pot is not a true audio taper) , that might be an option for you
Cheers man.. I may well decide to look in to that...
The ones that I got from the 450 series are £6.95 each https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CTS-Guitar-Pot-500k-Split-Shaft-Pot-Premium-450-Series-with-9-Tolerance/252917156436?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 and as I say, so far they seem pretty good (on my third set),
And these long shaft ones also seem a bit more consistent in action and taper.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CTS-True-Vintage-Taper-500K-Split-Shaft-Audio-Potentiometer-Pot-long-shaft-/281241538241?var=&hash=item417b4d4ec1
You would think though with todays technology like laser cutting and measuring that they would be able to sort that out? Maybe theres a big gap in the market there?
http://www.rabswoodguitars.co.uk/
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To answer your original question: these particular versions have 'cp' stamped on the pot. If you zoom in on the second pic you'll just about see it.
http://www.amberguitar.com/wiring-for-gibson/189-cts-tvt-500k-potentiometer-long-shaft.html
The brass shafts are usually a good sign of uprated CTS pots.