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Just asking to ascertain if upgrading the trem (e.g. a better block) might be an option instead of wholesale replacement? Maybe upgrade it in stages if cash is an issue - for example change the block and arm first, then maybe a Wudtone bridge plate, then maybe saddles - just a thought?
Alternatively the Wilkinson trems have a good reputation despite their economical price, and Vanson do a machined steel block as an upgrade over the zinc or cast steel blocks which the Wilkinson trems come with as standard.
At less money than the Callaham bridge, but of similar quality is the ABM 5050. I forget which variant is Mexican spaced (2" 1/16 or 52.5mm), but I'm certain one is.
http://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/89942/caspercaster#latest
I cant find anything by Wilkinson with that spacing. I'm normally a fan of their gear so its the first place I looked! I'll check out the ABM, thanks!
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
A recent thread on steel (and brass) trem blocks here: http://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/comment/1797674/#Comment_1797674
I have Kevin Hurley blocks (some steel, some brass) on the Wudtone trems on four of my Strats and they are excellent. Although he isn't currently selling on eBay his contact details are in the thread. I reckon a high quality block makes the most difference if upgrading a trem in stages (assuming typical zinc block is stock before upgrades). I'm not saying the quality of the other components doesn't matter, just that I think the single biggest difference is the block. Of course, if the sadlles are cheap or uncomfortable under your hand, or the trem plain won't stay in tune then there are other priorities than the block!
http://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/89942/caspercaster#latest
The purpose of the oval holes is to prevent binding if the screw position isn't quite perfect, rather than to allow them to be used on a guitar with the wrong post spacing.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
http://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/89942/caspercaster#latest
Given that they're mass-produced it's the prices for the other ones that seem less sensible to me...
Bear in mind that you can buy a whole Chinese Strat copy for only double that, at full retail price. (OK not including a steel block.)
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
I got a Kevin Hurley block for my MIM strat 2-3 weeks ago. I contacted him via eBay, and he set up a listing for me once the spec was agreed. Straight fit, no issues at all. It came with an arm (with tip), and the screws to fix it to the bridge, and was £32 including delivery.
One thing to take note of is that he offers a version of his block that has a plastic sleeve in the hole where the arm goes - it's threaded deeper down and the sleeve helps to keep the arm located when transitioning between pitch down and pitch up. There's a tiny bit of free play (similar to the Wilkinson on my Red Special, ie, barely noticeable), and it's light years better than the original Fender arm and block.
It may be cork sniffery, but the Axesrus block is cast steel rather than machined from bar stock. The crystalline structure inside the material will be different, but the sonic effect might be in the 1% range (ie, undetectable). Mass is almost the same - Axesrus say 240g for their block, and my Hurley weighed 256g (exactly double the zinc-coloured cheese effort that it replaced).
For the sake of having the good arm fit, and assuming the current bridge/saddles on the guitar are crap, I would buy the cheaper Axesrus bridge with the zinc block, for 20 quid, and get a machined Kevin Hurley block and arm. Both Axesrus bridges have the pressed saddles, and I'd be very tempted to think that they're exactly the same bits of hardware - just the block is different.
If the Axesrus block still has arm waggle at the up/down transition, then, compared to the one with the cast steel block, their cheaper one plus the Hurley block adds up to 7 quid extra for the better arm fit.
Nomad
Nobody loves me but my mother... and she could be jivin' too...
im assuming springs and claw make a negligible difference if at all?
Look for kevinh3324 on eBay.
I don't know what the bridge plate is made of on your ESP, but I'd have thought steel is likely. It's a fair bet that the saddles will fit, but I'd want them to come with their own intonation screws in case the ones fitted to the guitar are a different thread.
You also need to be sure that the three countersunk screws that fix the plate to the block are at the right spacing. For a MIM strat, it's 1+5/8" or 41.28mm. If the current plate is different, you'd need to measure it very accurately and tell KevinH. He can make a block to suit, but the dimensions need to be pretty precise for the countersunk screws to go in properly.
Nomad
Nobody loves me but my mother... and she could be jivin' too...
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein