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(formerly miserneil)
(formerly miserneil)
A jolly 6 hr round trip incl a good couple of hours chewing the fat with the good Mr Hoff and my amp is back in his hands for a thorough going over and general tweakery.
It seems that the power transformer is fecked so something is shorting on it, hence blowing the RCD before even being switched on, as wise men above predicted.
At the same time it is one of his very early jobs, dating from 2009. Jesse believes the wiring has been tinkered with over the years, to who knows what effect, and as mentioned above it doesn’t have an extension cab outlet jack or a bass cut switch. The VAC is old spec., lacking the click to bypass and there’s no push pull for mid boost. A good deal of fettling to be done to bring it up to current LJ20 specs, but it seems that that’s where we’re headed.
Thanks again for all the help, advice and interest above. Turning into quite an interesting journey...
Once you get over the disappointment, you can either let it ruin your day, or get on and embrace the search for the solution.
Might have to have a word with the vendor about vulgar fiscal issues, mind you
I was trying to think if, and how, this could be caused by shipping damage - and I think it could be, partly. I'm fairly sure the fault is a short from somewhere near the neutral end of the winding to the transformer frame, not a shorted winding - because a shorted winding would blow the fuse and not trip the breaker.
For this to happen the primary side of the winding must have rubbed or cut through its insulation and be touching the frame, which could possibly happen if the amp was shaken or dropped, but I think only if the transformer was *also* poorly made in the first place.
It would be interesting to know, just out of curiosity - I admit to having an obsession with knowing *why* things break, not just that they do
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
The seller is adamant that it was working when it left him, and I must say that he seems genuine, as far as one can tell from an exchange of messages, and the thing was wrapped in exemplary fashion, to the extent of sheets of mdf cut to size between the layers of bubble wrap and corrugated cardboard.
So either:
(1) I was sold a pup, and it was fecked before he sent it.
(2) The couriers threw it about and something broke.
(3) There was a latent/old age defect and I was just unlucky that it manifested itself just as I plugged in.
It's in the probabilities between these alternatives that we spreaders of peace and harmony operate
I remember a similar thread about one that was sent to Australia which had similar damage to the speaker...
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
I once had a very early HT-60 blowing bias supply fuses (no, I wouldn't fuse a bias supply either but I don't know world wide requirements) and that turned out to be a winding short to frame (run the traff on a bench, perfectly ok.) which took me a while to find! But that is the only PT failure I can recall save an A30 where the GZ was arcing but the guy kept feeding it ever bigger fuses all night!
Dave.
Rift Amplification
Brackley, Northamptonshire
www.riftamps.co.uk
Lately I've noticed that with volume on 3 and vac@4watts I get a nice clean strat sound, but when I dial the vac@20watt the sounds gets gainer/hairier, all other knobs remain. I thought I remember it being the other way around? Cleaner sound with more wattage or am I going crazy? Can anybody compared with theirs?