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NOGD: 1987 PRS Custom 24

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  • CountryDaveCountryDave Frets: 877
    Very nice. Similar to my old ‘89 that I sold a couple of years ago.
    HNGD

    Here is my forum trading profile - http://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/comment/1290470#Comment_1290470

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  • guitargeek62guitargeek62 Frets: 4386
    Adam_MD said:
    I always liked the in between sounds too but found the middle series position to be pretty much unusable.  I usually found myself on either bridge, neck or position 4 when I had mine.  
    The earliest generation had a hideous nasal cocked-wah thing going on in the middle position, later ones had variants of coils in series and some such. I quite like the latter :)
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  • Adam_MDAdam_MD Frets: 3421
    guitargeek62 said:
    Adam_MD said:
    I always liked the in between sounds too but found the middle series position to be pretty much unusable.  I usually found myself on either bridge, neck or position 4 when I had mine.  
    The earliest generation had a hideous nasal cocked-wah thing going on in the middle position, later ones had variants of coils in series and some such. I quite like the latter :)
    Yeah it was the latter I had but just didn't like the series middle position.  
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  • TINMAN82TINMAN82 Frets: 1847
    Stunning, love the colour
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  • guitargeek62guitargeek62 Frets: 4386
    edited November 2019
    Update time!  

    Pickup rings and gold pole-pieces for the 85/15 set were delivered this week. The guitar is now on the doctors table and is being re-fretted with Jescar FW47104EVO, which is pretty close to the stock PRS wire used nowadays. I could have gotten away with a fret dress, but they would have been very low and would still need re-fretting in a couple of years anyway. I've not tried this fret-wire before, but think it'll go well with the scarlet finish and hybrid hardware look I've been creating... fingers crossed! It's also meant to be a little harder than stock, so should last longer too. Should have it back in a few weeks! :)
     

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  • robertyroberty Frets: 10932
    Cool mate kudos to you for giving it the attention it deserves. I'll bet it rings like a bell
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  • Adam_MDAdam_MD Frets: 3421
    Nice we'll need lots of pics when it gets back.  What are you playing while it's away? 
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  • guitargeek62guitargeek62 Frets: 4386
    Adam_MD said:
    Nice we'll need lots of pics when it gets back.  What are you playing while it's away? 
    Not a lot! I sold off a couple of guitars to fund this one, so all that’s left is my Chibson Trini Lopez copy. I’ve got some new pickups for that too to try out, a set of IronGear Alchemist P90s, so that’ll give me a very different sound and feel to the Custom once it’s back. :)
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  • Adam_MDAdam_MD Frets: 3421
    Hopefully it's not away too long then. 
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  • guitargeek62guitargeek62 Frets: 4386
    Aye, I hope not - the Trini’s lovely, but not really suited to the stuff I play these days.
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  • VoxmanVoxman Frets: 4972
    edited November 2019
    Adam_MD said:
    I always liked the in between sounds too but found the middle series position to be pretty much unusable.  I usually found myself on either bridge, neck or position 4 when I had mine.  
    Yup, I'd agree with that - the middle position is dull and lack lustre - I wonder if there's a way to make the middle position more useable? Could it be rewired to give the two HB at once tone in the middle position?
    I started out with nothing..... but I've still got most of it left (Seasick Steve)
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 74493
    Voxman said:

    Yup, I'd agree with that - the middle position is dull and lack lustre - I wonder if there's a way to make the middle position more useable? Could it be rewired to give the two HB at once tone in the middle position?
    If it has the modern PCB-mounted rotary switch it can only be done by replacing the whole thing with a free-wired one - but if you do, then any combination is possible in any position. It's just working out how to connect it that can be a bit tricky...

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • VoxmanVoxman Frets: 4972
    edited November 2019
    ICBM said:
    Voxman said:

    Yup, I'd agree with that - the middle position is dull and lack lustre - I wonder if there's a way to make the middle position more useable? Could it be rewired to give the two HB at once tone in the middle position?
    If it has the modern PCB-mounted rotary switch it can only be done by replacing the whole thing with a free-wired one - but if you do, then any combination is possible in any position. It's just working out how to connect it that can be a bit tricky...
    Interesting ...It's a 2002 Cu24...so presumably not pcb mounted?
    I started out with nothing..... but I've still got most of it left (Seasick Steve)
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  • Adam_MDAdam_MD Frets: 3421
    Voxman said:
    ICBM said:
    Voxman said:

    Yup, I'd agree with that - the middle position is dull and lack lustre - I wonder if there's a way to make the middle position more useable? Could it be rewired to give the two HB at once tone in the middle position?
    If it has the modern PCB-mounted rotary switch it can only be done by replacing the whole thing with a free-wired one - but if you do, then any combination is possible in any position. It's just working out how to connect it that can be a bit tricky...
    Interesting ...It's a 2002 Cu24...so presumably not pcb mounted?
    My prs is from 2000 and it had a pcb on the rotary switch
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  • guitargeek62guitargeek62 Frets: 4386
    edited November 2019
    @Voxman I don’t think I’ve seen the wired rotaries after ~1996, not sure of the exact switchover, but the pcbs were in place by 2000 for sure.
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 74493
    They were definitely PCB from at least 1997. I suppose that doesn't sound like 'modern' now though...

    In theory it should be possible to mod the PCB by cutting the traces for the middle position and reconnecting, but it will be tricky to work out and fiddly to do - not sure if it's not more work than replacing it with a free-wired switch.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • VoxmanVoxman Frets: 4972
    Thanks guys 
    I started out with nothing..... but I've still got most of it left (Seasick Steve)
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  • guitargeek62guitargeek62 Frets: 4386
    @ICBM - oh guru master, do you have any ideas for how to ID these seymour duncans? They’ve got a stamped baseplate, 2-conductor wiring, but no other identifiable info. I’ve not taken output readings yet, but they seem relatively low - ‘59s maybe?


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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 74493
    Hard to tell, but probably. Accurate DC resistance readings will give you a good idea, and there aren’t too many that come with braided cables.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • guitargeek62guitargeek62 Frets: 4386
    edited May 2020
    I thought this thread deserved an update as the PRS has been through quite a few changes since being acquired last year!

    Over the last six months I've had the guitar re-fretted with Jescar (gold) fretwire, sourced and tried out an original sweet-switch, fitted a few pairs of pickups (with McCarty and 5-way installs to compare), and made some further hardware and cosmetic tweaks.

    As a result, I think I've settled on a recipe that works best for me. The guitar is now fitted with a set of 85/15 squabbins, 5-way rotary switch, standard tone pot, Phase 1 locking tuners with ebony buttons, black plastics (the knobs are non-PRS dakaware types), tremolo upgrade kit that replaces many parts with brass, and has been nicely setup with a new nut during the refret. I. I've used gold and brass screws and fittings where possible as I think it works really well with the scarlet finish and black parts, but I'd like to get a gold tremolo to swap out for the stock one one day to finish it off.

    Overall I'm very happy with this one. The neck is sublime, and the electronics config. gives me pretty much everything I'd normally use from two or three guitars in one. Tonally it covers a lot of ground, even if I do spend 80% of my time on the bridge humbucker! It's definitely not a museum piece, but I have no plans on ever moving this one on so that's really not the point - this guitar will be played as much as possible for a long, long, loooong time to come.





    *edit* and the "Before" pic as a reminder of how it arrived:


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