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My trading feedback: https://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/210335/yorkie
Musikding posted a drilled enclosure to me by mistake. It's roomy so I might do something a hand wired/vero in this. Not worth posting back really
My trading feedback: https://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/210335/yorkie
tayda is a big site so this does help initially to A. But the right type/size of component and B. To navigate the site easily.
Instagram is Rocknrollismyescape -
FOR SALE - Catalinbread Echorec, Sonic Blue classic player strat and a Digitech bad monkey
Instagram is Rocknrollismyescape -
FOR SALE - Catalinbread Echorec, Sonic Blue classic player strat and a Digitech bad monkey
I got my noise gate working again finally. Reflowed the solder joints as advised by Musikding. Was surprised that worked. It was passing signal and the key was triggering but there was no gating. Strange issue
I think the pot might be damaged because depending on how I screw it in the rotation is obstructed. I'll get a new one before attempting to use this again
It is a massive pain in the arse to box up. Do not recommend. I would go stone deaf. The boss one is supposed to be good when you use a side chain as well. It gets ragged on but I don't believe a decent noise gate is outside their engineering capability. I'd be curious to try it just for the hell of it
Instagram is Rocknrollismyescape -
FOR SALE - Catalinbread Echorec, Sonic Blue classic player strat and a Digitech bad monkey
Instagram is Rocknrollismyescape -
FOR SALE - Catalinbread Echorec, Sonic Blue classic player strat and a Digitech bad monkey
My trading feedback: https://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/210335/yorkie
My trading feedback: https://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/210335/yorkie
Instagram is Rocknrollismyescape -
FOR SALE - Catalinbread Echorec, Sonic Blue classic player strat and a Digitech bad monkey
Instagram is Rocknrollismyescape -
FOR SALE - Catalinbread Echorec, Sonic Blue classic player strat and a Digitech bad monkey
The switch itself was the easy bit, just solder the clipping pairs to the outer lugs of a DPDT and the inner lugs go to the diode pads PCB. I got the drilling right on the second go lol. The metal epoxy is useful to have around if you're me. The worst thing though was desoldering this PCB. It's hard to get the holes completely clear because it's thicker than most and also the layout is quite unfriendly. It's designed to look pretty first and foremost
Anyway it works really well. The D9Es are more open and a bit clearer, and the stock BAT41s are more compressed and saggy. Forward voltage is about 350mv for the germaniums and 250 for the BAT41s
I want to do a Rat (or maybe Life) with separate diode switches for each direction. You could use two ON-OFF-ONs and have 5 variations. Wildly asymmetrical clipping sounds cool on Rats, germanium one side and clean on the other. Kind of broken and messed up
My first builds were a total shit show - they'd work but the wiring etc was a mess.
The trickiest bit in getting them neat is having the confidence (and tools that do the job) to trim the wires to a precise length.
The pedalpcb boards are really nice but I actually prefer the fuzzdog approach. Every pedalpcb one I've ever done has been a right faff to wire the LED whereas fuzzdog is a lot more straightforward.
That said the pedalpcb builds I've done have been absolutely spot on so no complaints there.