Post-Lockdown pedal building

roberty

@UnclePsychosis I agree Fuzz Dog is much easier to work with. Top jacks are cool but bloody hell you suffer for them

This blog explains 1.2mm vs 1.6mm PCBs, it is exactly my experience https://shop.pedalparts.co.uk/blog/does-thickness-matter

TJT1979

Has anybody compared the Gorva vs Optopuss footswitches with Fuzzdog kits? I’ve used Gorvas and they’re great… just wondering if there’s any benefit in the opto switch?

roberty

@TJT1979 they're softer feeling when you click them. I'm club footed anyway so I just use normal 3P2D

Cookiemonster

UnclePsychosis said:

Oh and pedalpcb is designed for top jacks. I do love that. 

And tayda makes enclosures that fit them. Just wish pedalpcb had a distribution company in the U.K. 

roberty

Cookiemonster said:

UnclePsychosis said:

Oh and pedalpcb is designed for top jacks. I do love that. 

And tayda makes enclosures that fit them. Just wish pedalpcb had a distribution company in the U.K. 

Musikding will post them for €4.90 and there's no import duty on anything up to £135

UnclePsychosis

TJT1979 said:

Has anybody compared the Gorva vs Optopuss footswitches with Fuzzdog kits? I’ve used Gorvas and they’re great… just wondering if there’s any benefit in the opto switch?

The Gorva is "just" a nicer/higher quality 'normal' mechanically-switched footswitch. 

The Optopuss uses a soft-click switch and an optically-switched relay. 

I always go for the Optopuss now---I much prefer the softer click, and I'm fairly sure that the optical switching reduces the likelihood of getting the dreaded "footswitch pop". The downside is that its slightly more components / slightly more soldering / won't bypass without power. 

TJT1979

UnclePsychosis said:

TJT1979 said:

Has anybody compared the Gorva vs Optopuss footswitches with Fuzzdog kits? I’ve used Gorvas and they’re great… just wondering if there’s any benefit in the opto switch?

The Gorva is "just" a nicer/higher quality 'normal' mechanically-switched footswitch. 

The Optopuss uses a soft-click switch and an optically-switched relay. 

I always go for the Optopuss now---I much prefer the softer click, and I'm fairly sure that the optical switching reduces the likelihood of getting the dreaded "footswitch pop". The downside is that its slightly more components / slightly more soldering / won't bypass without power. 

Have you tried the Gorvas too? They are really soft. Also they’re rated for 30k cycles (rather than 10k for the Alpha switch in the Opto), although this is probably fairly irrelevant in real-life use. 

UnclePsychosis

TJT1979 said:

UnclePsychosis said:

TJT1979 said:

Has anybody compared the Gorva vs Optopuss footswitches with Fuzzdog kits? I’ve used Gorvas and they’re great… just wondering if there’s any benefit in the opto switch?

The Gorva is "just" a nicer/higher quality 'normal' mechanically-switched footswitch. 

The Optopuss uses a soft-click switch and an optically-switched relay. 

I always go for the Optopuss now---I much prefer the softer click, and I'm fairly sure that the optical switching reduces the likelihood of getting the dreaded "footswitch pop". The downside is that its slightly more components / slightly more soldering / won't bypass without power. 

Have you tried the Gorvas too? They are really soft. Also they’re rated for 30k cycles (rather than 10k for the Alpha switch in the Opto), although this is probably fairly irrelevant in real-life use. 

Yes I have some pedals with both. I prefer the Optopuss, the relay switching swings it for me TBH. Both are good choices though, its just preference. 

Cookiemonster

I need to box but just finished two circuits a Megalith which is called Doom Doom on the Moonn electronics website. And a Shredmaster. Both sound great, really like the Shredmaster

roberty

I enjoy decals now. Used to hate it. I'm sort of limited by the range of colour available to me

The Otter's Pocket text is a bit light, could do with being in bold. I'll see if I care enough to do it again in a day or two. I got sick of waiting for my mate to do a line drawing so I got the AI to do one for me instead. Took about 2 minutes

The label for the Tone knob on the Mexicola is mis-centered as well. It seemed alright on the mock up. I'll sleep on it (not literally on it, that would be weird)

roberty

Alex2678

roberty said:

What program is that?

roberty

Alex2678 said:

roberty said:

What program is that?

Dall E, there was a waiting list when I joined not sure about now https://labs.openai.com/

Their instagram is worth a peruse https://www.instagram.com/openaidalle/?hl=en

roberty

I'm not going to redo the decals, can live with little imperfections. If I ever make more of them I will obviously correct them then. I am making these for fun, and redoing things is not fun :-) 

Keefy

roberty said:

I'm not going to redo the decals, can live with little imperfections. If I ever make more of them I will obviously correct them then. I am making these for fun, and redoing things is not fun :-) 

... especially when you cock it up worse the second time!

roberty

Keefy said:

roberty said:

I'm not going to redo the decals, can live with little imperfections. If I ever make more of them I will obviously correct them then. I am making these for fun, and redoing things is not fun :-) 

... especially when you cock it up worse the second time!

Always a possibility @Keefy hahaha

Alex2678

roberty said:

Alex2678 said:

roberty said:

What program is that?

Dall E, there was a waiting list when I joined not sure about now https://labs.openai.com/

Their instagram is worth a peruse https://www.instagram.com/openaidalle/?hl=en

That’s blown my mind. Thanks!

roberty

Pleased with how this one turned out. The knobs I got for it didn't fit the pot shafts but I had some nicer ones in the drawer. I decided to redrill for a 5mm warm white LED in a bezel to match the new knobs

The Belton Brick means that replacing any of those wires would be a massive pain. I've wrapped them in cardboard and electrical tape and blu tac'd it in place to stop any movement at the solder pads

I'd probably get the medium length spring if I did this again. With the Damp control right down it should sound pretty nice into a dirty amp I reckon

roberty

I redid this cos I thought I could do a better job. I've had some nice comments about the Otter, and I've been asked to make one for someone else. I figure I ought to set the bar a bit higher and put some effort in. I might start putting a little logo on them somewhere

roberty

Volume and Fuzz text could be a little higher. Oh well