The Fretboard Rickenbacker Club (NSFW)

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  • GavRichListGavRichList Frets: 7201
    sofasteve said:
    sofasteve said:
    https://imgur.com/CH7cXTV

    Bought new in Feb 2019, Wanted one since I was 17 years old but could never afford it. Plays and sounds exactly as I dreamt it would for all of those years.
    Very nice indeed 
    Need a 12 string now though, Would love to try a 325 out too. Where does it end...
    I’m not quite sure. If the two I have are the last two I own then I’m happy... but I’d happily have a third :D
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  • sofastevesofasteve Frets: 39
    sofasteve said:
    sofasteve said:
    https://imgur.com/CH7cXTV

    Bought new in Feb 2019, Wanted one since I was 17 years old but could never afford it. Plays and sounds exactly as I dreamt it would for all of those years.
    Very nice indeed 
    Need a 12 string now though, Would love to try a 325 out too. Where does it end...
    I’m not quite sure. If the two I have are the last two I own then I’m happy... but I’d happily have a third :D
    I'd suggest it's definitely odds on that you're going to score a hat trick mate.
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  • GavRichListGavRichList Frets: 7201
    The box ticking exercise one would be a fireglo 360/12 or 365/12
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  • sofastevesofasteve Frets: 39
    The box ticking exercise one would be a fireglo 360/12 or 365/12
    And?
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  • GavRichListGavRichList Frets: 7201
    sofasteve said:
    The box ticking exercise one would be a fireglo 360/12 or 365/12
    And?
    I’ve bought two Rics in two months... gimme a chance :D
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  • sofastevesofasteve Frets: 39
    sofasteve said:
    The box ticking exercise one would be a fireglo 360/12 or 365/12
    And?
    I’ve bought two Rics in two months... gimme a chance D
    Fair enough! Has anyone played the 22Inch scaled Rics? Is putting a capo on the 1st/2nd fret comparable?
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72619
    sofasteve said:

    Has anyone played the 22Inch scaled Rics? Is putting a capo on the 1st/2nd fret comparable?
    A capo at the 2nd, with 12s on and tuned down a tone, will be close.

    I have to say I didn’t get on with my 320 at all, despite also having a couple of 22.5”/A width Fenders at the time, one of which I gigged with and was fine.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • rze99rze99 Frets: 2308
    1998, 330, Fireglo.  

    IMG
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    2009 330/12 Jetglo. 

    IMG
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  • TeyeplayerTeyeplayer Frets: 3270
    rze99 said:
    1998, 330, Fireglo.  

    IMG
    IMG
    IMG
    IMG
    IMG

    2009 330/12 Jetglo. 

    IMG
    IMG
    IMG
    IMG
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    IMG
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    Beautiful, both of them, though I do particularly like that 12string. 
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  • sofastevesofasteve Frets: 39
    The box ticking exercise one would be a fireglo 360/12 or 365/12
    Are you sure you don't mean "and" rather than "or"?
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  • sofastevesofasteve Frets: 39
    edited June 2020


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  • sofastevesofasteve Frets: 39
    ICBM said:
    sofasteve said:

    Has anyone played the 22Inch scaled Rics? Is putting a capo on the 1st/2nd fret comparable?
    A capo at the 2nd, with 12s on and tuned down a tone, will be close.

    I have to say I didn’t get on with my 320 at all, despite also having a couple of 22.5”/A width Fenders at the time, one of which I gigged with and was fine.

    Thanks ICBM.

    Having reviewed the  picture of my 330 compared with the others in this thread I'm now anticipating an immanent  visit from the McWhirter brothers looking for an entry for the worlds worst Ric photo for their book. Will try again tomorrow to attempt to avert the shame.

    Is anyone an expert on the two truss rod thing? Is there anything to be aware of when adjusting them?
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72619
    sofasteve said:

    Is anyone an expert on the two truss rod thing? Is there anything to be aware of when adjusting them?
    The post-1985 ones are much less problematic, but still can be awkward to get right - you quite often find the tension on the two has to be quite different, and completely opposite to what RIC say, they are not independent *at all*... they’re drastically interactive.

    Even though they don’t have the same potential for damage if wrongly adjusted, it’s still better to do them the same way as the old ones - manually bend the neck back to straight, then tighten the rods to hold it there, rather than just adjusting the rods to move the neck. You need to clamp the far end of the body to a bench or table if you don’t have someone to hold it down for you.

    The good news is that once adjusted correctly, they tend to be very stable compared to most single rods and rarely need adjusting much again, if at all.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • sofastevesofasteve Frets: 39
    ICBM said:
    sofasteve said:

    Is anyone an expert on the two truss rod thing? Is there anything to be aware of when adjusting them?
    The post-1985 ones are much less problematic, but still can be awkward to get right - you quite often find the tension on the two has to be quite different, and completely opposite to what RIC say, they are not independent *at all*... they’re drastically interactive.

    Even though they don’t have the same potential for damage if wrongly adjusted, it’s still better to do them the same way as the old ones - manually bend the neck back to straight, then tighten the rods to hold it there, rather than just adjusting the rods to move the neck. You need to clamp the far end of the body to a bench or table if you don’t have someone to hold it down for you.

    The good news is that once adjusted correctly, they tend to be very stable compared to most single rods and rarely need adjusting much again, if at all.
    Cheers for the info. I'm normally comfortable with tweaking truss rods but not sure about attempting this on my Ric. It plays beautifully with its factory set up even with a fair bit of relief. May just leave it well alone.
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  • JerkMoansJerkMoans Frets: 8797
    Cracking pictures Ric porn fiends but has anyone noticed that eBay 660 has gone up by £800 without anyone actually bidding on it :D 
    Inactivist Lefty Lawyer
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  • rze99rze99 Frets: 2308
    The only issues I have with my Rics are that the bridge  hex screws work loose over time under tough playing and rattle. Small issue  truck is to tighten before a gig or big sesh.
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  • JerkMoansJerkMoans Frets: 8797
    rze99 said:
    The only issues I have with my Rics are that the bridge  hex screws work loose over time under tough playing and rattle. Small issue  truck is to tighten before a gig or big sesh.
    Thanks for the tip. Might that be tweakable by loctite or similar, like the jazzmaster dudes anoint their bridges with?
    Inactivist Lefty Lawyer
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  • rze99rze99 Frets: 2308
    JerkMoans said:
    rze99 said:
    The only issues I have with my Rics are that the bridge  hex screws work loose over time under tough playing and rattle. Small issue  truck is to tighten before a gig or big sesh.
    Thanks for the tip. Might that be tweakable by loctite or similar, like the jazzmaster dudes anoint their bridges with?
    You probably could but I haven’t. 

    On my USA Jazzmaster standard bridge I have stuffed black spongy packing foam into the areas around each saddle and screw so that it is very compressed. Stopped the movement and therefore the rattles completely.  Reversible and you can’t see it until close inspection. 



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  • GavRichListGavRichList Frets: 7201
    or there's the ever-so cost effective Mastery option....
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