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Is that the pull out/fall out kind?
Would be grateful for any comments as to things that don't look right.
The only other thing I'm not sure of is that all but one valve socket is really loose. To the point that I wouldn't be very confident in changing a valve without pushing the socket back though the chassis!
Is that a common problem and relatively easy fix for a tech?
The mains one has already been hardwired, which is good - but check what voltage to, I have seen them done to 220/230 when it should be 240/250.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
Loose sockets are often caused by broken brass mounting bolts - they corrode where the head meets the steel chassis. It's a good idea to check all of them.
That's a cap, to suppress parasitic oscillation that these can be prone to. Remove at your discretion! Sometimes Marshall fitted these across the valve instead, and/or glued various wires to the chassis in specific places - they're very sensitive to wiring dress.
It also looks like the input network cap and resistor (only just visible) have been changed. Everything else on the PCB looks original as far as I can see. There are no screen resistors fitted (as original), but which should be. The bias caps should also be changed, most likely - more important even than the main filter caps.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
I asked if the filter caps had been changed and the seller said no. He also said it had Sovtek EL34’s and it actually has Mullard’s, so I’m now guessing he didn’t care/pay attention when it was last serviced!
I’ve had a look at the transformer and compared it to other ‘gut shots’ online, does look to be original.
What is the issue with not having the screen resistors?
On the basis that some of those changes are just unavoidable on a 40 year old amp, it sounds like it’s in reasonable enough condition.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
I was just playing it and also noticed a pulsing sound when the amp was fully on (no volume) but went away when I turned the amp to standby.
Is that likely to be tubes or power supply caps on the way out?
It's just sounds so good! It's crazy that Marshall don't have a JMP re-issue.
I loved the 2204 so much that I ended up buying @shaunm 2104 combo.
Maybe not that surprising for two old amps but they both actually sound quite different, even through the same cab/speaker.
The 2204 I have is quite full sounding at any volume. You can set the eq at 6, even the presence, and it sounds good.
The 2104 is much brighter and quite percussive sounding, which in some ways is more what I think of as a plexi sound. You really have to dial the presence and treble back on it. I've not had a chance to push the volume on the 2104 yet though, so that is just at low volumes.
I like the sound of both but just made me wonder what the 2204 circuit is 'meant' to sound like. What do others get from their 2204's?
I'll probably get both serviced soon and one of the amps might be going to Dan Gower to be modded.
If the amp isn’t stable without it, it’s still the wrong place and type to use really - Marshall used a 100pF ceramic cap across the V1A gain stage from plate to cathode, on the valve socket itself.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
Definitely not complaining about the sound of either, just intrigued by the differences.
It sounds like my 2204 is probably darker sounding than it ‘should’ be.
@icbm I’ve just seen an old comment of yours on a different JMP thread about THD Hotplates and Marshall’s. You suggested an impedance mismatch to get the best sound out of them.
I’ve got a 16ohm Hotplate and did accidentally have the amp set at 8ohm and then going into an 8ohm speaker cab. It sounded pretty good though.
Is that ‘safe’ under the same logic/science that it is safe to have a one step impedance mismatch going straight from an amp to a speaker cab?
Likewise with a real speaker cab - always set the amp to the matching impedance if possible.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
Interestingly, after looking at it in a bit more detail, the tech said it's actually a JMP/JCM800 hybrid and seems to have been built that way from the factory. Almost as if they finished building it with the parts coming in for the 800's. Unless anyone knows if the 2204 circuit was changed around 1979?
That would explain why the amp sounds different to my other JMP!
I wouldn't be surprised if he'd tried to buy it off you
Beauty is in the eye of the beer holder
My trading feedback - I'm a good egg
He did seem quite intrigued by it. He hasn't asked about buying it yet! Last time I saw him his advice to me was actually to buy more Marshall's, rather than sell any!