First board build - share your wisdom!

fretmeister

You'll need a tuner, compressor, envelope filter, a drive with a clean blend and maybe a synth if you like that.

And a good bass obviously. Sell the thin stringed tat if you need to.

#bassmasterrace

clarkefan

Vintage-T said:

I also wouldn't use Dual Lock until you're 1000% satisfied with both your pedals and the order they go in. Normal Velcro is way less of a ball ache.

Dual Lock is the right answer.  I think people get into trouble with it because they use it like it's velcro and slap loads on. 

You only need a little, like say a square centimetre in each corner.  Use big strips and yes you'll need a crow bar to shift stuff.

english_bob

clarkefan said:

Dual Lock is the right answer.  I think people get into trouble with it because they use it like it's velcro and slap loads on. 

You only need a little, like say a square centimetre in each corner.  Use big strips and yes you'll need a crow bar to shift stuff.

Literally.

Go to 7:28

Gassage

english_bob said:

Gassage said:

I disagree re patch bays. Remove anything from the signal chain that doesn't need to be there.

A patchbay itself contains maybe four inches of cable. If you wanted to, you could use the same shielded cable you use for instrument cable to connect the sockets. It might necessitate another foot or two of patch cable on your board, but even that won't have any tonal effect, particularly if the OP follows your advice and puts a good buffer on the board too.

Extra potential points of failure? Sure, maybe, but on a big pedalboard it's a drop in the bucket, and you have to weigh that against the ease of setup, teardown and troubleshooting that a patchbay gives you.

Gassage said:

NEVER USE SIDE MOUNTED OR BACK MOUNTED jacks on the side of your board- I guarantee you'll stand on the jack lead barrel at some point and break an expensive instrument cable.

Spoken like a man who can't solder. Getting a broken jackplug out of a socket is going to be a pain, but replacing a broken jackplug on an instrument cable is no big deal.

1. Nope I can't.
2. Evidence and Cornish cables are far too pricey to be breaking.

Re the patchbay- no- more so take anything out that COULD fail or introduce failure or noise.

rsvmark

Buy good quality patch cables you can and beware those pre made which are too fat, they are a bugger to route neatly. Try to avoid too much stress on the patch cables- always make them a little longer than needed.

Tuner first and some double as a handy mute if you are changing guitars.

vinnimunro

All done - cheers for the advice all! Had to raise the back legs as it seems the the extra few mm from the dual-lock made the power supply hang a little low but very happy with the result and really enjoying the sounds.
Didn't get along with the mojomojo at first (wanted something with more mids) but have come to quite like it as a smooth overdrive sound for rhythm, and boosting it with the soul food does great things. Now I just need a Phase 95 to go sideways on the back row....

andy_k

You need a bigger board,
 https://www.pedalplayground.com/
Leave some room for an ABY box at either end,
Don't rely on velcro / dual lok, if you like where they sit, drill some holes and use tie wraps to secure them semi permanently.
It will make sense when you actually take it out the house.