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If they’re too close to the neck I can adjust with the grub screws, the other way may be more problematic …
I’ve not put the threaded inserts in yet, as I want to do the staining and finishing first.
The scrap piece in front is the test piece for finish - it actually looks more red in real life
I promise you, you will find it easier to fix any issues now-before finish, than to have it all finished and then discover the issue I am trying to explain.
The effect I am trying to explain, will have the strings off to one side of the neck, and the bridge will not adjust that way, the only remedy will be to plug and re-drill the holes.
Some softwood dowel, and some screws to hold the bridge will allow you to have some strings on there with enough tension to check this, ( even the bridge screws wrapped in a lot of tape would do ) it is only an issue of alignment once the strings are threaded around the bridge, the actual intonation is the adjustable part- this will need the correct tension, and this is another critical part due to the amount of adjustment available.
It will be easier to hide any plugged holes under the finish ( they will be hidden mostly by the bridge anyway, just better hidden if done before finishing)
Hope it all works out for you.
You can see the bridge offset and reason for it here.
The angle of the bridge means strings dont go across it at a perfectly perpendicular angle
Note how much closer to the edge of the bridge the high e is compared to the low E
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Ask me how i know
Then mask the studs with a disc of tape while you finish. This also prevents chipping the finish when installing the studs.
Much easier to fix before finishing
I have another guitar with a Mojoaxe version of the bridge, which has offset stud holes, and it does display some of this problem - I can live with it, but it would definitely bug me if it could have been avoided.
Bit rubbish & exaggerated , but we know what it means …
I shall make some studs to fit in the holes, and see if the bridge is right, if not (which it won’t be) I’ll plug and re-drill with a jig that holds the bridge.
Still better to get all this done before you finish the guitar-a couple of dowelled holes will be invisible if you finish it last.
The gap is pretty consistent side to side, and the intonation seems good without help from the grub screws, which is what I was aiming for.
Now I’ve got the finish to apply
The fretwork to do (that’s the bit I am nervous about, never done a neck from scratch)
and the wiring, which should be fairly simple, with only one pickup!
Don’t reckon it’ll be finished by the end of the month ☹️ … but this challenge thing has focussed my mind on this project, and I’m grateful for that - thank you to whoever comes up with these things!
Been working on the finish for the last few days - I used Crimson guitars water based vintage cherry stain, and Dartford black grain filler … the grain filler is scary stuff: smear it all over the thing & think “I’ve ruined it!”. But it sands back ok.
Then I used Tru-Oil, as I have some experience with - It was touch and go for a while, as I thought it was coming out too gravy brown, but now I reckon the colour is coming out right, sort of “old SG” or something like that:
It looks slightly redder in person - this is after 3 coats of Tru-oil, at the rate of one a day.
I’m trying to do the coats at the end of the day, so I can get on with preparing wood for the next one first, and not get dust in the finish
Hung out to dry … the boards on the right are what I plan to make the next one out of
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perfect faded cherry/brown. Looks really good
Not quite the colour I wanted, but thats my fault for not using sealer between stain and grain filler - it turned brown as they mixed - we live and learn.
Next some masking for fretwork:
which is where I am now - also making some strap buttons and a jack plate out of steel, plan is to nickel plate those
more soon
The homemade jackplate and one strap button are on - I was going to nickel plate these, but I rather like the raw steel look … but they don’t match up with the bridge and tuners, which are nickel. I’m going to redo the strap button, grinding a form tool for the lathe, to get the curve where the strap goes:
Really getting close to stringing this thing up, and I’m bricking it, frankly … will the neck curl up like a banana? Will the trussrod work when I try and adjust it … only one way to find out
However … I’ve got some work to do on the fretting - plays fine on the lower frets, but there’s some problems on the 4th string above the 12th fret, and the first string chokes on the 8th. I adjusted the truss rod, and that helped, but I think I may need to go back to the fret levelling … But it’s the first time I’ve done this, so I guess what I thought was good enough on fret dressing was not … there’s other stuff to do, such as the plastics, but I think I’ll look at playability first - starting with deeper nut slots.
Anyway, here’s a pic of it strung and plugged!