Should I upgrade a Floyd Rose 1000 to an Original Floyd Rose?

Jonathanthomas83

As per the title, should I upgrade a Floyd Rose 1000 to an Original Floyd Rose?

I have a MiJ Charvel incoming and it has a FR1000 on it. I'm planning on sorting a push in arm on it, and in that process a few people on FB have suggested that a German made FR Original might be better in some ways, as an additional thing to change, if I'm going to start modding things. Subjective, of course, so I thought I'd ask the community here because we're all such a level headed bunch who never get carried away with hype and do things for the sake of it. Do we?...Do we?

Grumpyrocker

According to Floyd Rose website, a 1000 is exactly the same materials and spec as a German one, just made in Korea. 

I have an LTD EC-1000FR that has a 1000SE - which adds some stainless steel screws and a better block. It did come with the screw in arm. I've replaced it with the push-in arm. But other than that I have had zero issues with the trem. 

HerbieTheRadDorklift

The 1000 is fine. It's the Special that's dodgy

Jonathanthomas83

Grumpyrocker said:

According to Floyd Rose website, a 1000 is exactly the same materials and spec as a German one, just made in Korea. 

I have an LTD EC-1000FR that has a 1000SE - which adds some stainless steel screws and a better block. It did come with the screw in arm. I've replaced it with the push-in arm. But other than that I have had zero issues with the trem. 

See, I get this, and you're right, that's what it says, BUT, if you look at the parts list, there are separate lists for 1000 parts and original parts and the prices are different across the board, per part.

But the fact you've had no issues with the 1000 says it all really, I should let me OCD chill out a bit.

ThorpyFX

Jonathanthomas83 said:

Grumpyrocker said:

According to Floyd Rose website, a 1000 is exactly the same materials and spec as a German one, just made in Korea. 

I have an LTD EC-1000FR that has a 1000SE - which adds some stainless steel screws and a better block. It did come with the screw in arm. I've replaced it with the push-in arm. But other than that I have had zero issues with the trem. 

See, I get this, and you're right, that's what it says, BUT, if you look at the parts list, there are separate lists for 1000 parts and original parts and the prices are different across the board, per part.

But the fact you've had no issues with the 1000 says it all really, I should let me OCD chill out a bit.

I did but i had reason too, my 1000 came "over bent" so the place were the micro adjustors go into was bent past 0 degrees and as such the adjustors weren't working properly. so i bought a full fat Floyd as replacement. all ill say is, dont find yourself in place where you can compare side by side. annoyingly the full fat version is a marked increase in quality of material and machining. 

jennywallace

I've got a 1000 too and no problems at all.

FelineGuitars

We have the push in arms in stock, and steel sustain blocks in both oversize and regular sizes too.

Grumpyrocker

Don't make the mistake I did and try to fit the new arm with everything in place. Only leads to tears and sore fingers. Much easier to taker the strings and the trem off the guitar. 

Jonathanthomas83

ThorpyFX said:

Jonathanthomas83 said:

Grumpyrocker said:

According to Floyd Rose website, a 1000 is exactly the same materials and spec as a German one, just made in Korea. 

I have an LTD EC-1000FR that has a 1000SE - which adds some stainless steel screws and a better block. It did come with the screw in arm. I've replaced it with the push-in arm. But other than that I have had zero issues with the trem. 

See, I get this, and you're right, that's what it says, BUT, if you look at the parts list, there are separate lists for 1000 parts and original parts and the prices are different across the board, per part.

But the fact you've had no issues with the 1000 says it all really, I should let me OCD chill out a bit.

I did but i had reason too, my 1000 came "over bent" so the place were the micro adjustors go into was bent past 0 degrees and as such the adjustors weren't working properly. so i bought a full fat Floyd as replacement. all ill say is, dont find yourself in place where you can compare side by side. annoyingly the full fat version is a marked increase in quality of material and machining. 

This kind of says it all. Thanks, Adrian.

FelineGuitars said:

We have the push in arms in stock, and steel sustain blocks in both oversize and regular sizes too.

@FelineGuitars Jonathan, do you have the Original FR in stock and an original FR locking nut? I mean, it's kind of a stupid question, but do you recommend the upgrade, with your experience?

Grumpyrocker said:

Don't make the mistake I did and try to fit the new arm with everything in place. Only leads to tears and sore fingers. Much easier to taker the strings and the trem off the guitar. 

Haha, I won't lie and say that wasn't a tempting proposition for me. But as I'm in there working away anyway, that's what's prompted this conversation, tbh.

Roundwound

EVH apparently preferred the 1000 did he not?!

tekbow

Roundwound said:

EVH apparently preferred the 1000 did he not?!

EVH was promoting his own business interests. As great a guitarist he was, he was equally as ruthless a businessman.

hollywoodrox

Nothing wrong with the 1000 it’s all hardened steel 

FelineGuitars

Jonathanthomas83 said:

ThorpyFX said:

Jonathanthomas83 said:

Grumpyrocker said:

According to Floyd Rose website, a 1000 is exactly the same materials and spec as a German one, just made in Korea. 

I have an LTD EC-1000FR that has a 1000SE - which adds some stainless steel screws and a better block. It did come with the screw in arm. I've replaced it with the push-in arm. But other than that I have had zero issues with the trem. 

See, I get this, and you're right, that's what it says, BUT, if you look at the parts list, there are separate lists for 1000 parts and original parts and the prices are different across the board, per part.

But the fact you've had no issues with the 1000 says it all really, I should let me OCD chill out a bit.

I did but i had reason too, my 1000 came "over bent" so the place were the micro adjustors go into was bent past 0 degrees and as such the adjustors weren't working properly. so i bought a full fat Floyd as replacement. all ill say is, dont find yourself in place where you can compare side by side. annoyingly the full fat version is a marked increase in quality of material and machining. 

This kind of says it all. Thanks, Adrian.

FelineGuitars said:

We have the push in arms in stock, and steel sustain blocks in both oversize and regular sizes too.

@FelineGuitars Jonathan, do you have the Original FR in stock and an original FR locking nut? I mean, it's kind of a stupid question, but do you recommend the upgrade, with your experience?

Grumpyrocker said:

Don't make the mistake I did and try to fit the new arm with everything in place. Only leads to tears and sore fingers. Much easier to taker the strings and the trem off the guitar. 

Haha, I won't lie and say that wasn't a tempting proposition for me. But as I'm in there working away anyway, that's what's prompted this conversation, tbh.

If you can find one the Schaller lockmeister is a good value proposition as it is the same as the FRT100/200/300 which Schaller also make for Floyd Rose 

I tend to swap out the blocks to steel because I like what it does to the sound and an oversize block seems to up the sustain a bit, but you do need a bit more space inside the guitar cavity as the block goes from the standard 8mm to 12.7mm

Roundwound

tekbow said:

Roundwound said:

EVH apparently preferred the 1000 did he not?!

EVH was promoting his own business interests. As great a guitarist he was, he was equally as ruthless a businessman.

Mabye….but that argument loses traction a bit when you consider he still used the 1000 on his £4K US model. 

roberty

There's no rush to make your mind up. I would sit with it for a few weeks and see how you feel. You might have moved on by then

Jonathanthomas83

roberty said:

There's no rush to make your mind up. I would sit with it for a few weeks and see how you feel. You might have moved on by then

100%, mate. That's definitely what's going to happen! Good advice.

FelineGuitars said:

If you can find one the Schaller lockmeister is a good value proposition as it is the same as the FRT100/200/300 which Schaller also make for Floyd Rose 

I tend to swap out the blocks to steel because I like what it does to the sound and an oversize block seems to up the sustain a bit, but you do need a bit more space inside the guitar cavity as the block goes from the standard 8mm to 12.7mm

Thanks @FelineGuitars, very much appreciated.

tekbow

Roundwound said:

tekbow said:

Roundwound said:

EVH apparently preferred the 1000 did he not?!

EVH was promoting his own business interests. As great a guitarist he was, he was equally as ruthless a businessman.

Mabye….but that argument loses traction a bit when you consider he still used the 1000 on his £4K US model. 

Not really, just increasing the margins. I'm sure it does a perfectly fine job, but if I'm spending that, I want an OFR or Gotoh.

I mean, it's genius if you think about it.

Dave_Mc

I think the Schaller-made OFRs are a bit nicer than the FRT-x000s... the FRT-x000s are fine, but just a bit more crudely-made, don't flutter just as well etc. The FRT does the job, but the Schaller OFR does it with some panache and is a joy to use, kind of thing.

That being said, the price of a Schaller-made OFR is nuts these days. As far as I'm aware the Schaller Lockmeister is the same thing for a sensible price (in other words, @FelineGuitars has been saying this for years and that's good enough for me, I haven't compared the two!) so that's the way to go unless it absolutely *must* say Floyd Rose on it.

If you're planning on leaving the trem decked I'd be tempted to just leave the FRT-x000, that's what I did on one of my MIJs...

tekbow said:

Not really, just increasing the margins. I'm sure it does a perfectly fine job, but if I'm spending that, I want an OFR or Gotoh.

I mean, it's genius if you think about it.

 Agreed. Funnily enough, according to that Dimarzio article about the Dimarzios in the MusicMan EVH model, Eddie preferred the tone of the Gotoh trem to the (presumably Schaller) OFR. It's a really excellent trem too, but I get the feeling it's a little warmer/more modern-sounding than the OFRs and Schallers.

Kalimna

I have a similar question, if I may.
I have an Ibanez Jem Jnr, with stock hardware (replaced pickups with Sunbears as I felt they lacked 'meatyness'). Ive wondered if it would be worthwhile upgrading the trem? If so, what would be a drop-in replacement? It's otherwise a fantastic instrument.
Cheers,
Adam

Jonathanthomas83

Kalimna said:

I have a similar question, if I may.
I have an Ibanez Jem Jnr, with stock hardware (replaced pickups with Sunbears as I felt they lacked 'meatyness'). Ive wondered if it would be worthwhile upgrading the trem? If so, what would be a drop-in replacement? It's otherwise a fantastic instrument.
Cheers,
Adam

I could be wrong, but if the measurements are correct (which there's no reason for Ibanez to be non-standard), then you'd be able to drop a Floyd in there, or any of the others mentioned on this thread. It looks like there is some curvature on the shape of the stock trem, so as long as you're prepared to see slight gaps due to the accommodating cavity shape, you'll be fine, I think.

Raj_UK

Tom Anderson uses the Schaller Lockmeister which is proof enough of its quality.

Re: Gotoh EVH Musicman. Fender had exclusive distribution rights to the Original Floyd Rose in the early/mid 90's and wouldn't let EBMM use them. Hence the use of the Gotoh 1996T on the EVH.

As people have stated is a very good trem. Suhr and Tyler used for a long time during a dip in the quality of the OFR.