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Don't use plain lead-free with no silver, you'll find it very difficult to make good joints.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
Silver solder is something very different, and won't work well with electronics (It's the name given to solder typically used for model engine boilers, and generally fits between normal/'Soft' solder, and brazing in terms of heat required and joint strength)
https://www.somersetsolders.com/lead-free-solder-wire-sn100e-nc600-p110#175=
Happy to send you a small sample to try if you DM me your address.
As has been said before on here ... you want high silver content solder NOT 'Silver Solder' totally different animal.
Next you want a good soldering Iron that has plenty of power, with an appropriate sized tip for the job in question.
Cheaping out on solder or soldering iron is a good way to make horrible solder joints that aren't either good to look at or serve their purpose properly.
High silver content solder is actually mechanically a bit stronger than lead solder mixes, and I actually much prefer working with them to the old stuff.
Bottom line, buy good tools and materials learn to solder properly :-)
Sadly my usual recommended solder of choice from Lynx cables is out of stock at the moment.
Formerly TheGuitarWeasel ... Oil City Pickups ... Oil City Blog 7 String.org profile and message