DIY question - modern day plasterboard... how much weight can it support?

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Drew_TNBDDrew_TNBD Frets: 22445
My new flat is a new build. Plasterboard walls, the plasterboard is probably only about 12mm thick or something ridiculous like that. I've got these acoustic panels I've built, which are about 8kg each. Am I going to be safe hanging these off the walls and ceiling??
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  • PolarityManPolarityMan Frets: 7400
    you can get fixings that kind of butterfly out and spread the load over a larger surface area, you might try those.
    ဈǝᴉʇsɐoʇǝsǝǝɥɔဪቌ
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  • DeadmanDeadman Frets: 3967
    edited May 2015
    I agree with what PM said, I've used said butterfly fixings. However, avoid the metal ones and use plastic. The metal ones really need a firm grip of the surface they're going into before they begin to fan out after being inserted and can simply chew plasterboard to bits. Not so with plastic ones. They come with weight ratings too so you can select the right ones for your task. 

    I'd also be using a stud finder and hanging straight from the centre of joists or studs where possible (good as you can just screw right in). You need a dual purpose one that locates electricity or water for obvious reasons too.

     Good luck and don't go electrocuting yourself/getting wet.
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  • capo4thcapo4th Frets: 4437
    Go to a proper builders merchant and tell them what you need to do. Most new builds are two layers of 12mm board. There is a fixing for every job you just need to find the right one.
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  • TheCountTheCount Frets: 274
    I wouldn't mess about with the butterfly ones, they're a faff. These are much quicker/easier and do the job fine

    http://www.screwfix.com/p/fischer-self-drill-plasterboard-fixings-metal-35mm-pack-of-100/47347
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  • capo4thcapo4th Frets: 4437
    Will they be ok for 8kg? Ok for hanging a picture me thinks.
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  • underdogunderdog Frets: 8334
    edited May 2015
    Deadman;651358" said:
    I agree with what PM said, I've used said butterfly fixings. However, avoid the metal ones and use plastic. The metal ones really need a firm grip of the surface they're going into before they begin to fan out after being inserted and can simply chew plasterboard to bits. Not so with plastic ones. They come with weight ratings too so you can select the right ones for your task. 







    I'd also be using a stud finder and hanging straight from the centre of joists or studs where possible (good as you can just screw right in). You need a dual purpose one that locates electricity or water for obvious reasons too.

     Good luck and don't go electrocuting yourself/getting wet.
    Use the metal ones with the proper setting tool to open them before you put the screw in is the answer. Also usually sell these sets a few times a year.

    I hang TVs on plasterboard using them in my house.

    @TheCount no way I'd hang anything more than a couple of kg off those.

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  • IamnobodyIamnobody Frets: 6942
    edited May 2015
    What is behind the plasterboard?

    To get a TV on the wall in my old house (approx 10kg) I got a long drill bit, went through the plasterboard and into the breeze blocks behind.

    Then hammered in and glued into place long 15mm dia dowels of wood into the holes, then screwed the fixings into the dowels using big fuck off premium wood screws. It was solid!

    Upstairs where there were no blocks as it was a dividing wall between rooms I used these cavity plugs which are pretty good:

    http://www.wickes.co.uk/Rawlplug-41-625-Interset-Cavity-Fixing-M4x40mm-Pack-6/p/215071
    Previously known as stevebrum
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  • GazLionGazLion Frets: 104
    Iamnobody;651388" said:
    Yup those are what I'd suggest. Better than the screw on ones. I used the anchor type to fix some studio monitor to 12mm plasterboard. Solid as a rock
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  • bazxkrbazxkr Frets: 619
    Me, fix into the studding or not at all or certainly a mixture of both per panel you mount
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  • randomhandclapsrandomhandclaps Frets: 20521
    How are you actually planning on mounting them? As in what on the panels is going to attach to the walls? Personally I would go with a stud finder every time. If, for each panel, you can get at least one solid grip into a stud then the 8kgs becomes irrelevant (obviously you'd need at least one each end for any ceiling ones) and anymkre you put in for stabilisation will never be taking any strain.
    My muse is not a horse and art is not a race.
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  • Danny1969Danny1969 Frets: 10615

    Mine are heavier than yours and fixed to plasterboard using nothing more than wire and plasterboard fixings. The weights going down so your be fine. 

    Finding studs might not help, your flat might be made using C profile made out of tin

    If your worried gripfill a piece of MDF to the wall first and then hang the panels off that
    www.2020studios.co.uk 
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  • octatonicoctatonic Frets: 33998
    I mounted my bass traps to the ceiling of my old studio using nothing more than butterfly fixings.
    I used 3 per trap (one in each corner on one end and the middle of the other end)- mine were heavier than yours so 2x should be fine.

    In my experience stud finders don't always work.
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  • Drew_TNBDDrew_TNBD Frets: 22445
    Cheers guys.

    @Randomhandclaps - I've got some of these:

    Was gonna put them in the wood on the backs of the panels, two on each side. Then use crafting wire type stuff to hang them up onto nails or hooks in the wall.
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  • boogiemanboogieman Frets: 12530
    Don't put nails in plasterboard, they'll pull out in no time. Screws into proper plasterboard plugs, put your wire round the screw heads. Dome head screws would be better, that'll stop the wire slipping off.
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  • randomhandclapsrandomhandclaps Frets: 20521
    edited May 2015
    OK, that may give you a slight problem with stabilising them straight for any studs that are off centre. Unless you've spent a lot on the I'd go back to Screwfix and get so mirror plates. Really easy to fit too. An advantage of those as well is no need so you haven't got the hassle of trying to level them all and also all weight is going directly down the wall rather than angled away on the fixing - not that this necessarily means a good fixing would give out but clearly as much weight as you can trasistion into the wall itself the better.
    My muse is not a horse and art is not a race.
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  • Drew_TNBDDrew_TNBD Frets: 22445
    boogieman said:
    Don't put nails in plasterboard, they'll pull out in no time. Screws into proper plasterboard plugs, put your wire round the screw heads. Dome head screws would be better, that'll stop the wire slipping off.
    Yeah I meant screws. Doh. Haven't woken up yet!!
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  • randomhandclapsrandomhandclaps Frets: 20521
    octatonic said:
    In my experience stud finders don't always work.

    Yeah, this is very true to the point the some are complete shit and cause more confusion than help. They have got better and as yours is a new build a decent one will work better. If you're confident you can locate the studs without a detector. Unless forced otherwise by window or door frames they are usually 16" apart - particularly in new builds to comply with energy saving insultation rules. Tapping the wall and listening for the most resonant centre points can tell you when you are approx 8" of one either side. Then if you use a small braddle (or silmilar) in a part on the wall that will be covered by a panel to locate your first one then you can effectively measure out the rest.
    My muse is not a horse and art is not a race.
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  • Drew_TNBDDrew_TNBD Frets: 22445
    Will there be a stud at the side of a door frame? If so, that'd be an easy way to find them I suppose.
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  • Emp_FabEmp_Fab Frets: 24721
    image
    Donald Trump needs kicking out of a helicopter

    Offset "(Emp) - a little heavy on the hyperbole."
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  • underdogunderdog Frets: 8334
    This is what you want, cheap, easy to use and I've held a 30kg punch bag up with them.
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