The correct way to intonate a 3 saddle Tele

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I remember @icbm posting some pearls of wisdom back on the MR forum...but that's lost now. I'm planning on going from 9s to 10s on my Tele. It's a 'proper' 3 straight saddle set-up, non of these new fangled compensated ones.
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  • ESBlondeESBlonde Frets: 3646
    It is just possible that you won't have any issues anyway, a slight adjustment maybe but don't read too much into it yet. I understand the desire to prepare for a possible issue but don't go looking for it. If you develop an issue then address it at that point.
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  • ESBlonde said:
    It is just possible that you won't have any issues anyway, a slight adjustment maybe but don't read too much into it yet. I understand the desire to prepare for a possible issue but don't go looking for it. If you develop an issue then address it at that point.
    Very wise words

    You can always go to 6 saddles anyway. Just to please all the purists more than anything. :-P
    The Bigsby was the first successful design of what is now called a whammy bar or tremolo arm, although vibrato is the technically correct term for the musical effect it produces. In standard usage, tremolo is a rapid fluctuation of the volume of a note, while vibrato is a fluctuation in pitch. The origin of this nonstandard usage of the term by electric guitarists is attributed to Leo Fender, who also used the term “vibrato” to refer to what is really a tremolo effect.
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  • graphtech compensated saddles...
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  • not_the_djnot_the_dj Frets: 7306
    edited November 2013
    Once again I'm missing the power to facepalm!

     I just recall ICBM had some great tips on how best to make a compromise between the two strings on each saddle.
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  • I'm stringing my tele from 11's to 10's tonight and it's a 3 saddle brass jobbie. Advice appreciated if it all goes tits up. With me at the helm, it probably will.
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 74396
    It was nothing more complicated than to set each saddle for the sharper of the two strings - ie the B, the G and the low E - since a sharp note is always more obvious and worse-sounding than a flat note, and you can compensate for a flat note with a slight increase in pressure or a tiny bend if you get good at it.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • ICBM said:
    It was nothing more complicated than to set each saddle for the sharper of the two strings - ie the B, the G and the low E - since a sharp note is always more obvious and worse-sounding than a flat note, and you can compensate for a flat note with a slight increase in pressure or a tiny bend if you get good at it.
    Thanks
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  • Yeh, what ICBM said (as usual!)
    The Assumptions - UAE party band for all your rock & soul desires
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  • JAYJOJAYJO Frets: 1542
    edited November 2013
    ive recently restrung my tele. 3 brass saddles. As ive been playing unplugged recently ive notice a lot of buzz on the G string and The 1st E string maybe too low(action). If i alter the saddles height with the allen nuts will this affect the intonation. ie up and down as opposed to backwards and forwards. If so what do i do then ? Im using 10s  ps  I dont understand ICBMs explaination. cheers
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 74396
    edited November 2013
    You might have to adjust the intonation, but probably not.

    Just set each saddle to the correct intonation for the string which sounds sharper. Many people set them to an average of the two, which gives you one slightly flat string and one slightly sharp, which you would think would be the best compromise… but it isn't, because the sharp string always sounds more jarring than the flat one (especially the G). So just set each saddle to make the sharp string in tune and let the other one take care of itself. Set the E/B saddle correct for the B, the G/D one for the G, and the A/E one for the E. Simples :).

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • JAYJOJAYJO Frets: 1542
    ICBM said:
    You might have to adjust the intonation, but probably not.

    Just set each saddle to the correct intonation for the string which sounds sharper. Many people set them to an average of the two, which gives you one slightly flat string and one slightly sharp, which you would think would be the best compromise… but it isn't, because the sharp string always sounds more jarring than the flat one (especially the G). So just set each saddle to make the sharp string in tune and let the other one take care of itself. Set the E/B saddle correct for the B, the G/D one for the G, and the A/E one for the E. Simples :).
    Thanks very much mate!
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  • Or... buy some compensated brass saddles and fit them!
    260+ positive trading feedbacks: http://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/57830/
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  • Or... buy some compensated brass saddles and fit them!

    But then the mojo falls out of the guitar ;-)
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  • jd0272jd0272 Frets: 3871
    Before I went compensated, I just flattened the G a bit. Worked fine, and wasn't really noticeable on the lower strings anyway. Had no complaints from fellow musos in gig crowds either.
    "You do all the 'widdly widdly' bits, and just leave the hard stuff to me."
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 74396
    Or... buy some compensated brass saddles and fit them!

    But then the mojo falls out of the guitar ;-)
    You'd get it back if they were compensated steel saddles ;).


    Not a fan of brass… [/heresy]

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • sorry I didnt read to the bottom of your post about the compensated saddles, and also read on the tele forum that becasue of what theyre made of (not metal) you may lose the ground on the strings if they dont come into contact with the bridge plate.  

    Ive got a 52ri tele and when I took it to have a couple of the frets 'smoothed' the tech very slightly bent the screws that hold the brass 'saddles' (not even enough to notice theyre not straight) and ever since ive had near perfect intonation


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  • bertiebertie Frets: 13587
    Or... buy some compensated brass saddles and fit them!

    But then the mojo falls out of the guitar ;-)
    not in my hands

    ;)
    just because you don't, doesn't mean you can't
     just because you do, doesn't mean you should.
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  • Zingy new strings fitted last night. Feels good with 10s on (I did have 9s on my Tele and my Strat and 10s on my Gibsons).

    I didn't have a lot of time so all I did was stick the new stings on and give it a bit of a play through my THR10. Sounded fine, but I'll check the intonation tonight (sounds like it's close though)

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  • JAYJOJAYJO Frets: 1542
    bigdawg said:
    sorry I didnt read to the bottom of your post about the compensated saddles, and also read on the tele forum that becasue of what theyre made of (not metal) you may lose the ground on the strings if they dont come into contact with the bridge plate.  

    Ive got a 52ri tele and when I took it to have a couple of the frets 'smoothed' the tech very slightly bent the screws that hold the brass 'saddles' (not even enough to notice theyre not straight) and ever since ive had near perfect intonation


    I have the same guitar, do you have any issues with the neck/fretboard being sticky? Anyone else either?
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  • when I first got the guitar it had a sticky neck but after using it its now smooth and fast.
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