Anyone into Radio Controlled things?

chillidoggychillidoggy Frets: 17137
edited November 2013 in Off Topic

Specifically servo motors. I want to know if I can get a 12v (or less) one and graft it on in order to open and close a heating air butterfly valve in my car. Needs to open and close 90 degrees, either open or shut.


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  • bertiebertie Frets: 13581
    wives ?
    just because you don't, doesn't mean you can't
     just because you do, doesn't mean you should.
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  • ROOGROOG Frets: 563
    edited November 2013

    RC servos are neat, really small, quite powerful, nowadays they are relatively cheap and readily available and as far as I know most of em can do 90 deg rotation or more. 

    However, they nearly all run off 4.8 to 6.0 Volts. The older analogue ones, (still available) use a pulse width modulation signal to control their position. If you put just power on them they sit still, you need a variable width pulse to move them, typically 1ms to 2 ms from one extreme of motion to the other. Digital ones require a different control signal, but similar principles apply, just need digital compatible controller.

    There are 12V servos, but these tend to be quite specialist, more expensive, robust and bigger.

    Not sure how much torque your butterfly valve needs to move it but most manufacturers quote torque outputs for each model of servo, some are seriously powerful.

    You could get an analogue servo, buy a servo tester, (quite low cost) and build/buy a 12V to 5V DC regulator to power the thing. The tester has a knob on it to allow you to manually move and position the servo, so if you put it to mid position the servo moves to its mid position.

    Quite a bit of effort, but I cant think of a more readily available bunch of parts to do the job particularly if you want the proportional position control. I did see a 12V heating control valve but that would have needed much modification too.  

     

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  • IanpdqIanpdq Frets: 131
    Have a look here you mite find something  http://www.mindsetsonline.co.uk/Site/Home

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  • ROOGROOG Frets: 563
    Ianpdq said:
    Have a look here you mite find something  http://www.mindsetsonline.co.uk/Site/Home

    I love stuff like that, I used to get my girls soldering maplin kits at Christmas, mini LED christmas trees, digital dice, little robot bug things.

    I don't think they have ever forgiven me!

    >:D<

     

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  • MistergMisterg Frets: 353
    You can buy a servo, rip the electronics out of it and connect directly to the motor. You can then drive it through ~100degrees by applying ~5V to the wires (either + or -). I wouldn't try it with 12V, though.


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  • chillidoggychillidoggy Frets: 17137
    edited November 2013

    So from this I'm getting that if I want to use a complete servo, then I can't just stick + or - 5v DC through it, unless I give it a variable width pulse supply, but if I take out the controller I can?

     

    How does the motor know when it's got to the right position if the controller is removed?

    And also if voltage is removed, presumably the motor stops, they don't spring back or anything?

     

    EDIT: Ooooooh I've just had a look at the mindsetsonline site! I've seen an actuator that might be what the doctor ordered, but I'll have a much better look when I get to work!


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  • ROOGROOG Frets: 563
    edited November 2013

    Depends on whether you want to know where the servo is? If you take the guts out as Misterg says and run it as a motor with a gear box, putting 5V on it will make it go until you take the power off, revering the polarity will make it go the other way until you take the power off.

    Most servos have inbuilt mechanical stops, if you keep hitting them you might strip the gears. The electronics is designed to stop this happening and the servo tester has a knob on it to allow you to select the position proportional to the position of the knob, I don't know if you need this control or whether you just need to 'wang' it from one extreme to the other?

    If you take the power off it is unlikely that it will 'spring back' there is a massive gear ratio in the gear box, they tend to stay put with power off. 

     

     

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  • chillidoggychillidoggy Frets: 17137
    edited November 2013

    I want to control either one of these vents (I have a pair of the first ones anyway) in the car footwells, hence the 90 degree movement. As I see it, power on to open, microswitch shuts off motor. Reverse polarity, motor operates in the other direction, stopped by microswitch. Haven't worked out how to what type of switch I would need to reverse polarity though, maybe DPDT. 

     

    http://www.mindsetsonline.co.uk/Catalogue/ProductDetail/linear-actuator?productID=78dacc9a-bbf8-4762-913c-72a4d1ca2729&catalogueLevelItemID=cc7532f6-22eb-4a9c-9e57-8c3ec18bbb31

    http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/demist-y-splitter-vent-with-butterfly

    http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/y-splitter-vent-with-butterfly-3-x-60mm-outlets


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  • FX_MunkeeFX_Munkee Frets: 2493
    edited November 2013
    Why not just a "bog standard" geared DC motor?
    comme ca
    I've used stuff like that before for similar mechatronic projects, the gearboxes normally have a slip clutch in to prevent damage from hitting the stops as well.
    Shot through the heart, and you’re to blame, you give love a bad name. Not to mention archery tuition.
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  • chillidoggychillidoggy Frets: 17137
    edited November 2013
    Looks interesting, no fannying around with volt dropping, but I wonder if it's likely to destroy the the plastic valve spindle with the torque, though? The previous acutator (3-6v dc motor) had adjustable microswitches to cut the power, otherwise it'd have to be on a timer. Found a volt dropper - http://www.amazon.co.uk/Car-Power-Converter-Display-Supply/dp/B008VORADW


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  • ROOGROOG Frets: 563
    edited November 2013

     Thinking along the lines of keeping it simple how about a Bowden cable with a knob on the end? something like a speedo cable?

     

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  • chillidoggychillidoggy Frets: 17137
    Simple? Good grief, I'm Emp's right-hand man when it comes to over-complicating simple things!

    Seriously, I have looked at that too,and it may also be a possibility. I have a pair of solid wired bonnet release pulls, but they'll never go around the curves required. I'm thinking a flexible cable might be better, so that's another option too.


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  • MistergMisterg Frets: 353
    There's a simple circuit with a DPDT switch and a couple of micro-switches to limit travel that would work with either the servos or that geared motor.- something like this:

    http://i.imgur.com/FKJlfzX.png

    (but with a DPDT switch instead of the relay).

    A car USB power adaptor would be a handy source of low voltage for a servo.


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  • chillidoggychillidoggy Frets: 17137
    edited November 2013

    See where you're coming from there. I looked at the actuator from mindsetonline again, and thought the plastic block should be made from metal, I can do that, but as they've no idea of torque, it's impossible to make an assessment of how much force it's going to provide. The geared motor is certainly an option, but whatever I do, it will need to be powered off when it reached either open or closed position. The idea is for the occupant to flick a switch on the dash up or down to open/close the butterfly.

    More detailed prevarication is required at the weekend, methinks, but I reckon the solution is in here somewhere.

     

    Thank you for the assistance, chaps.


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  • chillidoggychillidoggy Frets: 17137
    Not really. The solenoid will spring back unless it's powered up, and I don't want to leave it powered.


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  • IanpdqIanpdq Frets: 131
    What about the  Actuators :)



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  • FX_MunkeeFX_Munkee Frets: 2493
    Stepper motor? They're surprisingly cheap nowadays but, as always, control is the real issue.
    Hydraulic/Cable? That would give you exact range with no feedback req. :)

    Anyway re: the geared DC motor, I never did the electronicy bits for designs but isn't there a basic switch circuit based on current draw? I'm thinking electric windows here. ie motor meets stop, draws more current, sensed, relay de-energised, all within a few ms?

    Engineering is so much more fun when it's somebody elses problem...
    Shot through the heart, and you’re to blame, you give love a bad name. Not to mention archery tuition.
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  • chillidoggychillidoggy Frets: 17137
    Ianpdq said:
    What about the  Actuators :)


    No, they're way too big, unfortunately.


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