Wudtone black magic woman finish, any experience?

Jez6345789

If anybody is interested basic Wudtone as far as I can tell is osmo oil with combinations of dyes or pigments. I think for some formulas they mix in a little oil based varnish necks seems to come to mind. I used this method on several bodies and it obviously works out a lot cheaper. You can colour it with any oil based pigment from an artists shop and I have mixed classic fender colours this way. You can easily do stuff like a white base coat the colour over top once truly dry you can wire wool wear through the top coat to give that fender respray look. You apply it with a rubber or old t shirt. They do gloss satin or Matt iSTR. You can also colour up a final aged coat that gives a more vintage vibe. 3 years ago I had a good few build going for friends and this was a nice economical solution. I did originally do my STrat in Wudtone and quickly realised I had smelt something that smelt the same. Took me about 3 months to remember where I had used it years ago on a wood floor but it came back out of the old grey matter in the end. Easy to apply self levels and if you like to dabble gives an easy way to colour or finish guitar bodies. Unlike a lot of oils it is no overly brown to start off with as it is 7 polymerised oils and drying agents,. Hth

Sarge

@Jez6345789 which particular Osmo oil do you suggsst for the gloss topcoat?

Jez6345789

I knew some one would ask I will dig out my tins. ISTR you need to leave it 4-6 weeks to get super hard then I used car cutting compound from halfords the paste with variable size abrasion that breaks down the more you work till it's like fine pumice you can then get it like quiet glass I have also used meguires as well. As it's an oil based even the gloss is not like spraying a high gloss lacquer it's just shinier than the Matt or satin oils. I have also made a n aged top coat with 25% oil based gloss varnish. It's a use ful product and I spent a whole winter experimenting with different mixes for fun. I will dig out the old can.

Jez6345789

I bought mine from here at the time there are stacks more variants also a quick dry now presume made with more drying agents. The standard poly ox dried identically to the Wudtone I had used. I have also used Fiddes hard wax oil it's similar sort of stuff but not as clear as poly ox . Also these guys do sample and smaller sizes as a little goes a long way. I see osmo now do poly ox tints ready coloured in honey etc that might be good as an aged top coat. Have a look round this site there service and samples were always good and quick delivery. http://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/product/osmo-polyx-oil

Sarge

Thanks @Jez6345789

TTBZ

First coat is on! There's a couple of blotches and uneven patches on it so I'm hoping another coat or 2 might sort that out. How long do you guys reckon to leave between coats? There's a few bits that haven't gone in, probably because I didn't sand it down enough (though I was sanding for ages)! It's looking ok so far though, not too washed out which is what I was worried about. This is the first time I've ever done this so didn't expect it to be perfect.

TTBZ

Few more coats and I'm pretty happy with this overall! Gonna get started on the tru oil finish over the weekend then wax polish it next week all the parts have arrived so should be done by the end of next week.



Very pleased with the crimson stain, thanks for the recommendations! Got me thinking about giving my old strat body a new lease of life with a different colour now haha

WezV

be aware that the process of rubbing the tru-oil in can lift some of the stain.   SO whereas normally I advocate lots of rubbing, sanding and buffing with tru-oil, on this you actually want to apply the first sealer coat as gently as possible.

For this I would use a sponge brush and make sure its not overloaded.    You want just enough oil to coat.  Too much  can lead to runs which may appear a different colour to the surrounding finish if they lift the stain and take it with them.  But once you have a couple of light sealer coats on you can build up in normal coats if that's what you are going for

Not used these stains so not really sure whether they will lift or not, but in my experience tru-oil seems to lift other stains more than the EZE-oil talked about above.  

You should test either on scrap, or under the scratchplate area

Nomad

I applied the Crimson oil on mine with bit of folded j-cloth, and got only the slightest bit of stain transferring to the cloth. I wasn't being heavy-handed or especially gentle - just wiping it on, keeping the cloth damp, and making sure it was all covered. Certainly no lifting visible on ghe body itself.

Nomad

Duplicate post.

TTBZ

Thanks for the warning Wez I'll try to be careful with it! I didn't realise Crimson did finishing oil as well, probably shoulda went with that but I've already got the tru-oil now.. not sure whether I should order the Crimson stuff instead though what do you reckon? Suppose I can test under the pickguard and see what happens.

edit - quick mock up, can't wait to get this finished!

WezV

Its always worth testing, even when using supposedly compatible finishes.

If nomads right your test will quickly tell you that there wont be issues ... So don't go buying anything else, work with what you have

Sarge

I burnish my stained bodies with a soft cloth before the first sealer coat of Tru Oil, a good firm rub generally in the direction of the grain amd I very rarely get any stain on my oil cloth.
Oh and I always leave the stain 24 hours before burnishing to completely dry.

looks great! Good luck!

TTony

TTBZ said:

That looks pretty good - I'd be very happy with that result.

TTBZ

Tru oil didn't seem to lift anything so I've done the first very thin coat I've got it hung up but it's hard to wipe it on evenly like that - any tips?? I assumed lying it down on a surface is a bad idea since when you do one side the wet side will be face down on the surface ?

Sarge

Grab a piece of 2x1 and bolt it in the pocket, bob's yer aunt and fannys yer uncle

WezV

Sarge;1105257" said:

Grab a piece of 2x1 and bolt it in the pocket, bob's yer aunt and fannys yer uncle

This, but make a hanger on the end, even if its just a hole.

You then have a few options. Put it in a vice/ workmate vertically. Clamp it to the edge of a table horizontally.... Or hang it from a screw in a shed/garage. I tend to have them in the vice when applying, and hung out the way when curing

TTBZ

Well I currently have neither a workmate or a vice haha, will have to try and borrow one!

PVO_Dave

I used the wood in the neck pocket idea, but made it a cross so I could use a wall mounted guitar hanger

DrBob

TTBZ;1104883" said:

Thanks for the warning Wez I'll try to be careful with it! I didn't realise Crimson did finishing oil as well, probably
shoulda went with that but I've already got the tru-oil now.. not sure whether I should order the Crimson stuff instead though what do you reckon? Suppose I can test under the pickguard and see what happens.



edit - quick mock up, can't wait to get this finished!

That's bloody lovely, looks a bit shorter at the back than a normal Telemaster, is it ?