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@welshboyo don’t worry, the ATMA is a brilliant amp! I literally just want a combo as it’s less to move around.
With regards to the overheating issue, I've read that 'newer' ones don't have the problem. Is that actually true? It sounds like they were just biased colder from the factory.
I was also wondering whether pulling two of the EL84's would help the problem.
The proper solution to this is to fit a bolt-on heatsink to the rectifier - that's what the hole in the middle is for . Marshall never did this even on the later amps.
Biasing cooler is a good idea anyway, simply because the factory setting is too hot and wears the valves out. The service info calls for 1.375V across the 10-ohm resistor at the test point - the best setting is about 0.8V in my opinion.
I also fit two large rubber grommets around the upper rear chassis bolts, to increase the cooling gap - there is one anyway, but it's quite small.
You can pull two power valves if you want, which effectively turns it into a DSL201. Reset the impedance to 8 ohms to run the 16-ohm speaker. That would reduce the heat generated a bit, but I would probably do the other stuff first.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
@timmysoft the H&K stuff looks good but I've got my mind set on trying a couple of 'vintage' marshall amps.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
Just typical that I have cash, have decided what amp I want but there are none around...
Randomly GAK have one at the moment.
Just the usual JCM900 problems of the 'choke' resistor occasionally desoldering itself or failing, and sometimes the next one (22K I think) in the HT chain, and the crap pots. The transformers are sometimes known to blow, but they seem better than the JCM2000s.
Be careful if you want to connect an extension cab to it - the selector gives 8 or *4* ohms and not 16 as it implies - it's probably the single worst piece of labelling on any amp I can think of, and I always carefully remove the bracketed figure with some solvent when I work on them to avoid confusion...
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
I’m guessing you like it? Have you played it against any other amps?
@Icbm thanks for the info.
My other amps are a Marshall Valvestate 8080 with a 1x12" G12T75 speaker (still a cracking little amp, & Marshall's top selling amp of all time), a Class A Laney VC30-210 with 2x10" Jensen C10Q16 speakers, Laney Cub 12R (revalved with hand-selected JJ tubes and the stock Celestion Rocket 50 speaker swapped for a Celestion Century Vintage 30), and a Vox Valvetronix AD120VTX 2x12" combo with 2x12" Celestion ('Neodog') Century Vintage Neodymium speakers.
I jump the FX loop with a short patch lead in the DSL401, which you can't do in the DSL40c, and it kicks up the volume and gives a more gutsier tone. The foot-pedal lets me go from 'green' clean to 'amber' OD1 crunch to 'red' OD2 Crunch on stage, and unlike the DSL40C it's a true 2-channel amp with independent EQ.
It's also surprisingly loud for a 1x12 40w amp. Some years back I did an open-air gig and took the DSL401 which was supposed to be miked up to the PA, but the PA had a problem and kept cutting out, so I had to go pure 'back-line' playing classic rock with a heavy drummer. I was worried the DSL401 wouldn't be loud enough & cut through the band mix. I needn't have worried and did the gig with volume levels set at only half - I actually had to turn the volume down!:
They may say it is... but it’s a standard cathode-biased Class AB, just like an AC30 and all the others based on that power stage design.
Sorry, pet peeve .
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
Have a Neo Creamback I can put in it, so that’s the speaker upgrade done.
Will try jumping the fx loop as well.
Will make sure it’s a keeper before doing the heat sink but will keep a fan close by!
Any other tips for eq’ing or getting a ‘good’ sound out of it?
The stock setting is 1.375V at the meter connector - aim for 0.8V instead.
All the DSL/TSLs are biased too hot, but this one is the worst.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
https://www.andertons.co.uk/guitar-dept/electric-guitar-amps/valve-amps/valve-combos/laney-vc30-112-vc
Supportact said: [my style is] probably more an accumulation of limitations and bad habits than a 'style'.