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I'll double check that tomorrow.
Didn't know what shake proof washers are, will take a look. Plan is to wean myself off kits and start doing some simple breadboard layouts so I can build up a better understanding of circuits. Good to have a standard for the build process.
I think it's an offboard wiring / switch problem, PCB looks fine as far as I can tell. If it was me I would connect 2 jack sockets to the in and out and test the PCB without footswitch etc
The jack in doesn't look connected. I would redo that. Actually on closer look that switch is confusing for jack in and out. Double check the wiring on the site, it might be that simple
Instagram is Rocknrollismyescape -
FOR SALE - Catalinbread Echorec, Sonic Blue classic player strat and a Digitech bad monkey
Instagram is Rocknrollismyescape -
FOR SALE - Catalinbread Echorec, Sonic Blue classic player strat and a Digitech bad monkey
If you have a look at the beavis audio breadboard layouts you can then order things you need for a fuzz face, boost, red llama etc.
Instagram is Rocknrollismyescape -
FOR SALE - Catalinbread Echorec, Sonic Blue classic player strat and a Digitech bad monkey
If JI is actually switching to G then there's something very wrong with the switch wiring! Unless it's switching to JO (correctly for bypass) and the output jack is shorted instead.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
Check grounds in and out are shorted together
Now it would be handy if you had some kind of audio probe because you can't use a multimeter using DC Ohms to buzz through a capacitor coupled audio circuit ... caps block DC so you need an actual audio source,
You can chop the end of a guitar cable, connect the bare screen wire to the pedals ground and then use the hot conductor as your audio probe but it's a pain constantly hitting the strings to get signal so chopping the end of an ipod aux cable is a better idea ....connect the ground of the aux cable to the pedals ground and use one of the other 2 wires as your probe ... doesn't matter which as they are just left and right and you only need one. Play a song and that's your audio probe
Then start at the output of the pedal when it's connected to an amp .... start at the jack out socket, if good move to any pot that sets a master level ... signal will be other side from ground or you can test on wiper in the middle ... then move to output of last opamp before output (pin 1 or 7 of a TLO72 ... then move to inout of opamp (pin 3 or 2 or 5 o 6 depending on circuit. You will then find where signal is lost between input and output, then you can generally investigate in exactly the right area
It's all good experience
Instagram is Rocknrollismyescape -
FOR SALE - Catalinbread Echorec, Sonic Blue classic player strat and a Digitech bad monkey
I'm tempted to take out that trim pot and wire an alpha pot in temporarily to see if I can get it biased easier. The trim pot that come with the kit just doesn't seem to have any significant affect, it just spins and spins.
Hard to know if that's the issue or some other fault.
Often with these things it's something simple that got overlooked