Neck break/split - waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa!

zenzeypher

Broken neck crack from an incompetent stand.. or namely someone stumbling into it drunk.

You can flex the neck to open the joint, it closes nice and clean.

Im confused as looking online there's a million different suggestions with a million different counterpoints.

The scarf joint is solid..

any recommendations.

like I said it's nice and clean and tight.. like how I like my --- cracks ?! ehe




any help would be great.

I've a monster G clamp.. just need to know how to go about this.

JookyChap

Ouch

I know how I'd do it, but you'll get a saner answer from @ICBM or @GuitarMonkey

zenzeypher

any opinion is great at the minute so I get a rough idea until someone will kindly give me a definate.

very anxious at the moment.

zenzeypher

this split seems the same but mine doesnt open that far..

JookyChap

Titebond Original and some clamps - looks pretty straight forward

zenzeypher

that's what I was thinking.

syringe it in ?

now I gotta buy some tightbond.

zenzeypher

and syringes

thanks Jooky.

zenzeypher

Also can I use string tension to open the split after the TR has been loosened.. syringe in glue..loosen strings, clamp.. clean run off and wait 24hours ?

2 clamps etc.

cruxiform

http://www.ibanezrules.com/tech/setup/crack_neck.htm

Very similar to your problem. Hope it helps.

GuitarMonkey

Looks good to me. Main things to watch are (i) work the glue right into the break as shown, and (ii) Titebond is best at gluing wood to wood so if the joint has failed, the surfaces won't be clean wood and you might be better with a slow cure epoxy but this is more difficult to use.

Also, I like to make a caul from "friendly plastic" which matches the neck profile, to ensure that the clamps don't mark the back of the neck.

ICBM

GuitarMonkey said:

Looks good to me. Main things to watch are (i) work the glue right into the break as shown, and (ii) Titebond is best at gluing wood to wood so if the joint has failed, the surfaces won't be clean wood and you might be better with a slow cure epoxy but this is more difficult to use.

Also, I like to make a caul from "friendly plastic" which matches the neck profile, to ensure that the clamps don't mark the back of the neck.

Looks to me that it's the joint that's come apart on the treble side and the wood which has broken on the bass side, so I'd probably err on the side of caution and use epoxy.

The high-strength, slow-setting Araldite is fine - *not* the quick-set, which is completely wrong for this kind of work - warm it gently with a hairdryer until it goes clear, and work it into the crack using the edge of a piece of paper. Be careful, it's *very* messy - wipe any and all excess away with as much kitchen roll as you can afford, and watch out for it transferring to other parts of the guitar etc - it's hard to clean off once it's set. If you can get it clean enough that you don't have to sand back any ridge on the crack once it's set, you may get away with not having to touch up the finish.

zenzeypher

I've bought titebond original... Will that do it?

What I thought would be an easy fix is baffling me.

zenzeypher

Okay so are we talking the two part, I'm assuming I can pick this up from town.

So super strength epoxy, warm, spread break, work in epoxy.. Clamp.

I'm gonna dry run the clamps first to angle it so it sits in the biggest lip.

Also in gonna mask off the neck with electrical tape to catch any drip.

I take it the key is to not over tighten the clamps so all the epoxy doesn't ooze out?

Thanks for all the input guys.

I've seen an epoxy fix on a friends epiphone which suffered 4 headstock breaks and it never broke at old repair.

GuitarMonkey

You can clean up epoxy that hasn't set using acetone (or cellulose thinners).

If there is a small amount of squeeze out, this can be trimmed with a sharp blade before it goes really hard.

zenzeypher

So the epoxy is the best bet an I can fun this in hardware stores ?

zenzeypher

Excuse the terrible spelling on my phone with over zealous spell checking.

Again I appreciate the help.

GuitarMonkey

Araldite is widely available. Get the regular stuff

http://www.go-araldite.com/images/stories/standard_2k_GBpackaging_white.gif

not the rapid which isn't as strong.

zenzeypher

Brilliant, apparently Robert Dyas sells it, so I know what I'm doing tomorrow.

Gonna get some hand clamps too, worried about over tightening and squeezing it all out.

Adam_MD

You should be able to get it in Maplin as well if there's one close to you.

zenzeypher

Sweet, there's one a small trek away I'll give em a call tomorrow.

zenzeypher

Holy shit it's £30 !?!?!?!!!