Yamaha acoustics

Cranky

I think the Red Label FGs are meant to harken back to the old days — mainly the 70s — when Yamaha was making their acoustics in Japan (Nippon Gakki?) before moving some of the builds to Taiwan and China.  Elliott Smith and his red label FG-180 played a role in getting the Red Label legend back on people’s radars.  I had one myself for about a year before giving it to someone, and it really did sound fantastic.  

Are these new reissued Red Labels made in Japan?

fnpt

Cranky said:

I think the Red Label FGs are meant to harken back to the old days — mainly the 70s — when Yamaha was making their acoustics in Japan (Nippon Gakki?) before moving some of the builds to Taiwan and China.  Elliott Smith and his red label FG-180 played a role in getting the Red Label legend back on people’s radars.  I had one myself for about a year before giving it to someone, and it really did sound fantastic.  

Are these new reissued Red Labels made in Japan?

The FG5 upwards are. The FG3 is Chinese made.

Whitecat

fnpt said:

Cranky said:

I think the Red Label FGs are meant to harken back to the old days — mainly the 70s — when Yamaha was making their acoustics in Japan (Nippon Gakki?) before moving some of the builds to Taiwan and China.  Elliott Smith and his red label FG-180 played a role in getting the Red Label legend back on people’s radars.  I had one myself for about a year before giving it to someone, and it really did sound fantastic.  

Are these new reissued Red Labels made in Japan?

The FG5 upwards are. The FG3 is Chinese made.

They are definitely "finished in Japan" but depending who you talk to it sounds like some of the initial woodworking is done in China either way even on the 5s.

goldtop

^ Yamaha does this a lot now, as with the top tier of Revstar electrics. 

I think only the FG9 and LL/LS26+ are actually truly 100% MIJ.

fnpt

I keep playing the LL everyday and loving it more every time. I've barely played electric since getting this. Songs that usually sounded OK in my FG720 now sound so much better with different levels of complexity in the sound. One of the best gear purchases I've made.

And it has the added benefit that playing chordal stuff in my electrics is a breeze now after the workout of playing an acoustic.

Alexlotl

I know the red labels have wider nut spacing, but other than that is there any difference in the dimensions of an FG5/FS5 and their FG800/FS800 series counterparts?

Listening to some videos last night, and really enjoyed the sound of the FG5, but I’m not sure I’d be able to try before I buy. There are plenty of FG800 series around, though. I want to be sure that it’s not physically too large for me; I have short arms, and some dreads feel like I can barely get my strumming hand into position. If I can determine basic size compatibility by playing a FG800, that would be great. 

Soupman

@Alexlotl you're in York from your profile, just had a check & Gear4music have 2 FG5s in stock...

Alexlotl

Yeah, I’ll probably be buying from G4M as I have some credit. But I don’t remember seeing them when I was there a few weeks ago, so it’s possible those two in stock are actually in Sweden, which is always a risk with G4M.

2 in Stock(holm)

Shadow

Alexlotl said:

Yeah, I’ll probably be buying from G4M as I have some credit. But I don’t remember seeing them when I was there a few weeks ago, so it’s possible those two in stock are actually in Sweden, which is always a risk with G4M.

2 in Stock(holm)

I've found if you put something in your basket then go to checkout, if they're charging you a fortune for delivery then the item isn't in stock locally.

DavidR

Alexlotl said:

I know the red labels have wider nut spacing, but other than that is there any difference in the dimensions of an FG5/FS5 and their FG800/FS800 series counterparts?

Listening to some videos last night, and really enjoyed the sound of the FG5, but I’m not sure I’d be able to try before I buy. There are plenty of FG800 series around, though. I want to be sure that it’s not physically too large for me; I have short arms, and some dreads feel like I can barely get my strumming hand into position. If I can determine basic size compatibility by playing a FG800, that would be great. 

As I said, I have FG5 and FG830 and without measurng them precisely (one's in Norfolk and the other one is in Essex!) they seem exactly the same dimensions and nut width but the 830 (Spruce/Rosewood) is a lighter more ornate build and a bit studenty whereas the 5 (Spruce/Mahogany)  is a bit more serious and woodier in tone and a little heavier - although still light. Subjective individual comments obviously but best I can do!

In answer to your specific question, they are, like all FGs, similar sized dreadnoughts. If the 800 series is too big for you, the FG5 will be too.

DavidR

P.S. If you like the FG5, it is the FG820 in the 800 series you might want to try @Alexlotl - they are both Spruce/Mahogany  

Alexlotl

Thanks, that’s useful! I’ll see if I can make it there this weekend. 

Lestratcaster

I'm a tutor and about 5 of my learners have the FG800, it plays quite nicely and the body shape is just about right. Not too big not too small. Decent guitars within that price range.

fnpt

I know this is personal preference, but I was wondering if it is worth bothering lowering the saddle a bit for an easier playing. It seems to me that at just over 2mm it's already on the lower spectrum and that any lower may cause buzzing, bit would appreciate your thoughts:

https://i.imgur.com/8n73TSR.jpeg

fnpt

To be honest, I only have a bit more difficulty playing above the 9th fret, whether its barre chords or lead.

guitarjack66

The FS models strike me as a good size for comfort. I'd like to try one one day. I really like the look of them.

BigPaulie

fnpt said:

To be honest, I only have a bit more difficulty playing above the 9th fret, whether its barre chords or lead.

What you doing away up there?

Don't you know there's no money above the 5th fret?

Jokes aside, have you checked the relief?

BigPaulie

Alexlotl said:

I know the red labels have wider nut spacing, but other than that is there any difference in the dimensions of an FG5/FS5 and their FG800/FS800 series counterparts?

https://uk.yamaha.com/en/products/musical_instruments/guitars_basses/ac_guitars/fg_series/fg_800/specs.html#product-tabs

https://uk.yamaha.com/en/products/musical_instruments/guitars_basses/ac_guitars/fg_series/fg_redlabel/specs.html#product-tabs

fnpt

BigPaulie said:

fnpt said:

To be honest, I only have a bit more difficulty playing above the 9th fret, whether its barre chords or lead.

What you doing away up there?

Don't you know there's no money above the 5th fret?

Jokes aside, have you checked the relief?

I have eye sighted the relief and its looking good to me. I've down tuned to Eb and the guitar is buzzing a bit on open strings, I may have to increase it a little bit though.

Tannin

fnpt said:

I know this is personal preference, but I was wondering if it is worth bothering lowering the saddle a bit for an easier playing. It seems to me that at just over 2mm it's already on the lower spectrum and that any lower may cause buzzing, bit would appreciate your thoughts:

No. You haven't measured the relief. Making non-reversible alterations to the saddle when (a) the action is already close to as low as an acoustic action can go, and (b) you don't know what the relief is yet .... just no.

Do two things first:

(1) Measure the relief. Eye-sighting it isn't measurement and it isn't reliable*. Buy a set of feeler gauges from any car parts shop for a few pounds, put a capo on the first fret, hold the guitar in playing position, and measure the gap between the top of the 7th fret and the bottom of the string. On an easy-playing guitar, around about 0.2mm is about right. You can go about 0.1mm either side of that. Don't guess, measure.  

* Expert techs who do this stuff every day can estimate the relief by just pressing down on the fret instead of using a feeler gauge. Ordinary mortals like us have to measure stuff to get it right.

(2) While you've got that capo on the first fret, play. Does it feel slightly different to playing without the capo? Or lots different? If it is very different, your nut may need attention. 

If it is buzzing on open strings when tuned down only a semitone, it is already as low as it wants to go. BUT if the relief isn't right, you may be able to adjust that, then adjust the saddle, and end up with a better result. (What I'm saying here is that if the relief is (say) zero and the saddle is a little too high, you'll get the result you describe. But that's just an example. As always when in doubt, the answer is accurate measurement.)