Why will PRS not stay in tune

Funkfingers

The machinehead could only cause problems if it is either worn out or not securely fastened to the headstock . 

Assuming that the offending string is properly secured in the locking mechanism, the only possible cause of going sharp are the string snagging in the nut slot. 

Barney

Funkfingers said:

The machinehead could only cause problems if it is either worn out or not securely fastened to the headstock . 

Assuming that the offending string is properly secured in the locking mechanism, the only possible cause of going sharp are the string snagging in the nut slot. 

I think I have it sorted fingers crossed ...seemed to be a number of things .. 

The nut ...I put some nut oil on that 

The G string machine head was moving slightly ..the screw that holds it t on to the neck was loose and it was moving slightly 

And as @ICBM said ..I think...the screw that holds the bit on you turn was slightly loose ...

Which one of these has cured it or possibly all 3 I'm not sure ...

I'm going to give it a good go later ...I am fairly heavy user of the trem so hopefully it will be ok 

ICBM

Barney said:

And as @ICBM said ..I think...the screw that holds the bit on you turn was slightly loose

Hopefully you didn’t overtighten it as PRS do at the factory…

They aren’t actually meant to be cranked down as tight as possible - that does cause tuning trouble. If you look carefully, there’s a little spring washer in the gap between the key and the tuner body - it needs to be compressed, but not squashed completely flat, if that makes sense.

Barney

ICBM said:

Barney said:

And as @ICBM said ..I think...the screw that holds the bit on you turn was slightly loose

Hopefully you didn’t overtighten it as PRS do at the factory…

They aren’t actually meant to be cranked down as tight as possible - that does cause tuning trouble. If you look carefully, there’s a little spring washer in the gap between the key and the tuner body - it needs to be compressed, but not squashed completely flat, if that makes sense.

No I didn't overtighten...just until I could feel it tightening then loosened it back a touch 

guitars4you

On those wing collar nut tuners - I have known plain strings slip if not fitted properly- In which case it has nothing to do with the Trem or nut - Just string slipping under tension- Fine if fitted correctly 

ICBM

guitars4you said:

On those wing collar nut tuners - I have known plain strings slip if not fitted properly- In which case it has nothing to do with the Trem or nut - Just string slipping under tension- Fine if fitted correctly 

That won’t make the string go sharp after a bridge down-bend though.

I always give the string a sharp bend backwards on the far side of the clamp before I cut it, so it leaves a little hook shape at the end.

guitars4you

ICBM said:

guitars4you said:

On those wing collar nut tuners - I have known plain strings slip if not fitted properly- In which case it has nothing to do with the Trem or nut - Just string slipping under tension- Fine if fitted correctly 

That won’t make the string go sharp after a bridge down-bend though.

I always give the string a sharp bend backwards on the far side of the clamp before I cut it, so it leaves a little hook shape at the end.

Agree that if it happens the string goes flat and generally quite severely flat 

TBH there appears to be so much to and fro about this issue and what is/might be the issue that I’d want to start all over again and try and analyse each string/nut/Trem problem bit by bit and see what is happening before I start to move on

it needs to be on a bench of a tech IMO

Barney

Just me again and still struggling ....IV done a video to see iff it will show what I mean ..it's going out slightly in the vid but sometimes goes out more ....maybe I'm expecting to much off a PRS trem I'm not sure ...but you can hear it out then back in when I press above the nut 

It's had the nut re-cut so I'm thinking it's probably not not that any more 

ICBM

Barney said:

 ...but you can hear it out then back in when I press above the nut 

It's had the nut re-cut so I'm thinking it's probably not not that any more

Yes it is - that's the proof.

It's the nut material - contrary to PRS's claims it's not perfectly self-lubricating and it can definitely cause trouble... mine did until I used Big Bends on it. Actually, a brass nut would be better, and stainless steel even more so - a lightly lubricated hard metal surface is much lower friction than a soft plastic one, no matter if it's graphite impregnated.

Barney

ICBM said:

Found it - you should be able to see that the bottom of the bridge is curved, where it should be straight.





The screws won't actually click into the grooves since they won't be fully out, but you should be able to feel a 'position of least resistance' as you turn the screws. You should only need to adjust the middle four.

After I did that, it stayed in tune perfectly.

The tech that I took it to for the nut did mention that and that mine is like that ..not sure what can be done about it though and iff it is the problem because on the video above when I press above the nut it seems to correct it 

Barney

ICBM said:

Barney said:

 ...but you can hear it out then back in when I press above the nut 

It's had the nut re-cut so I'm thinking it's probably not not that any more

Yes it is - that's the proof.

It's the nut material - contrary to PRS's claims it's not perfectly self-lubricating and it can definitely cause trouble... mine did until I used Big Bends on it. Actually, a brass nut would be better, and stainless steel even more so - a lightly lubricated hard metal surface is much lower friction than a soft plastic one, no matter if it's graphite impregnated.

Yes I got some big bends and put it on ...but maybe need to put some on since the nut has been cut ...the guy reckoned it shouldn't need it but think I will put some more on ... Thanks