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@GSPBASSES is this up for being sold? Looks great...
Wonder who the original builder was. A shame they couldn't use their own name.
It's a bit pale, and a bit swirly in the grain, but it may well be the only bit of the guitar with some genuine vintage Gibson provenance... so worth saving
But i want it darker. Normally, I'm a fan of Fiebing's leather oil for this, a mix of black and dark brown.... but it will colour those old inlays (can be really useful on shiny new celluloid inlays ). Normally I like it as it won't raise the grain or warp the wood, and gives predictable results.
For this I went with a wetter traditional wood darkening method since I can allow it all to dry out before gluing it onto a neck. I don't like this method on complete necks though. You start by brushing on strong black tea. let it sit for a bit, then brush on Iron Acetate (wire wool dissolved in white vinegar)
once dry it gets a light oil
This is the board stripped down and cleaned up showing just how pale it is
and after. Still nicely grainy... but dark
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Instagram
Was the fretboard on the original neck, or an addition from Will?
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Instagram
I'm just waiting on some new neck binding now. I'm trying to get a nice colour match with the body, but it also needs to be 2mm thick to get the full neck width required. also means i won't be adding nibs to this one
I made a headplate out of maple construction veneer
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Instagram
On the wood bleaching - is that something you might do before, for example, applying a stain or dye to a body? I'm thinking of, for example, some of the more outlandish classic PRS finishes (pinks, greens, blues) that I can't imagine would have gone well on a yellowy-toned top.
But then I'm not sure it would play well with a water-or-alcohol based stain.
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Awesome. Really useful advice, I've mostly used wudtone in the past and had decent-to-good results (my red strat is gorgeous, although the finish does wear) and I'd like to try dyeing/staining the guitar, then sealing with shellac and finishing with a rubbed on poly (or similar). I really want to try building a glossier finish and spending time flatting back and polishing up through the micro fine grits. Not sure how realistic a goal it is, but watch the making and modding space soon...
Knowing I can bleach if wanted is very helpful.
It could easily pass muster as a natural inconsistency in the wood.
Actually, as I've been watching a lot of wood staining tutorials I've realised just how much some companies "get away with" in terms of inconsistencies in sanding and staining. If you didn't know what it looked like before the stain, you wouldn't know that they over-sanded one area where there is now less stain, you'd just chalk it up to the wood. This is similar in a way - it doesn't draw attention at all.
The photos actually show a closer match than IRL.
The thin piece is the original that didn't survive the fretboard removal. Then we have 3 creams.
The one that looks close is a bit more yellow in real life. The original has that pinkish tinge.
There are more options I can try but not in the right thickness.
I should be able to get close enough so the finish takes care of the rest. Worse case is I have to rebind the body, but I would rather not if I don't have to.
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I can send you a small piece for matching if you'd like?