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https://www.bes.co.uk/motorised-mid-position-valve-3-port-22mm-17391/
there’s a little lever on the side to manually open the valve. With the timer on for heat and the room stat turned up, so it’s calling for heat, push the lever on the valve and hook it up onto it’s retaining position. If the boiler then fires up and the rads get hot then you’ll know it’s a fault at the valve. Like I said earlier it’s usually the synchronous motor inside that fails… they have a hard life.
Beyond that, if you're not used to doing this sort of thing, my advice is to call a gas plumber.
I have found that getting an annual contract with Worcester Bosch is the most cost effective method, includes yearly service and parts, so keeps everything running efficiently and safely (e.g. they test for Carbon monoxide levels in the flue) and no surprise bills. I'd recommend this even if you had no fault today.
we had used one of those nationwide home cover schemes. When the 3 year old boiler failed, it took them 2 weeks to fix it, after numerous 150 mile round trips and ordering parts for the wrong model, that (as I thought) were not even the faulty ones (it was the gas solenoid, they kept trying to replace the main PCB, and even rewired the mains connection the wrong way!). Eventually sacked them, and the Worcester Bosch guy fixed it with stuff in his van in one visit
Gas is dangerous stuff, and can see you getting convicted for manslaughter if you cause a gas leak. CO or CO2 leak and someone dies
I couldn’t override it as described for the other type; there’s a black knob on the top that rattles a little but I can’t move. Didn’t want to force it. Can I just change the motor in this type as well?
Thanks also from Tilly, the (formerly) chillypuppy