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Comments
Ian
Lowering my expectations has succeeded beyond my wildest dreams.
It also has allowed me to measure the distance from the nut shelf to the fret slot and now.......
It looks straight, same measurement on both sides of the board. I think the 1st fret was the issue all along, not the fretboard.
Is that even possible???
Can't really explain why the fret would create this much variance.
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Ian
Lowering my expectations has succeeded beyond my wildest dreams.
This is the amount that needs levelling and I'm sure the short side is the correct length.
I've measured the other fret distances and they match those on the Stewmac calculator for a 628.65mm scale length (24.75")
What do I do to make sure I don't touch the short side, as I cannot risk that getting any shorter than it's current length. I need a guide, something like a 12" sanding block that I can clamp to the board but metal so that it won't get sanded out of shape by an imbecilic like me.
Mark the correct square line with the blade first, it should be plenty sharp and thin enough to score a neat line, then flip it and scrape away back to that line. I think you might have a bit more control than with a sanding block.
I lined it all up with my sanding block in position to mark the correct line, the amount than needs taking off is tiny. The other issue is that the current end of the board isn't a straight line, but a slight 'S' curve. It may be that a sanding block is needed just to get a true straight edge.
Ian
Lowering my expectations has succeeded beyond my wildest dreams.
Ian
Lowering my expectations has succeeded beyond my wildest dreams.
Or, is the fretboard correct at the treble side, in which case, the ruler needs to be moved up very slightly.
It is something that I find frustrating, the closer we get to accuracy, the harder it is to achieve.
As I stated earlier, the biggest problem here is holding the piece securely, which makes the actual work so much easier.
I'd have no hesitation attacking that with a chisel, if the neck was held solid, and also, a good sanding block can be used to keep a sharp line, ie-a hard block with sanding material securely attached, not a bit of paper wrapped around a stick.
In the pic, the amount of difference between T and B sides is tiny, if the ruler is just showing a parallel line, if it is the actual material to be removed, it is somewhat trickier.
I can definitely see that the chisel will work, just don't want to spend £40 on a tool I will only use once