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I think you could probably go a bit lighter on the construction and still have the strength you require. That mahogany strip could be thinned and weight relieved, and the braces scalloped without loosing any strength at all... but that might be stuff to try on the next one
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The mahogany is planned to be thinned in the middle but I will keep the width at the pickup and bridge areas for that to become an internal extension of the through neck.
Good point about the braces. I probably won't scallop them because I need the stiffness to countertact any forces the ebony might place on the box (there's a teeny bit of cupping on one of the pieces which cups and straightens when the weather changes if I don't keep them clamped to a backing board) but I could slim the and triangle them more than they are at the moment.
I will probably make them a bit longer too so they key into the kerfing.
And cut a piece of the thicknessed walnut oversize in length and height.
Then out came the bending iron again and into the water went the walnut. Once hot and sodden respectively I did the bend:
This will be final fitted after the box is built - there will be a shaped block behind it to give this area extra strength and stability, but there should only need to be minor tweaks at that stage.
The butt joint with the side will be angled to give a sound and gap-free joint and the overage sitting in the slot will also trimmed at the appropriate time.
Additionally, the bottom edge will be sanded to the curve of the radius dish and then the top edge, which will be straight, can be cut. In the meantime, the other mahogany side-piece can be used to hold it in shape while it fully dries
Next job is to find the block of nice, light swamp ash I'm sure I have in my offcuts box to cut the blocks that will support this area and joints.
This will glue to the mahogany and walnut sides and then the walnut cutaway piece will be sized, fettled and fitted later.
I've decided - at this stage at least - not to weight-relieve the side pieces. I might be wrong, but I'm not sure that this will finish much heavier than many solid bodies. The advantage I have is that, because of the slightly unconventional build sequence, I will be able to guestimate the weights of the various components while there is still access to the bits I might want to lighten.
And this done, some triple checking and fettling, the first side piece is being glued, with the spacer keeping everything true and the clamps pressing it into the walnut, and thus the walnut into the radius dish:
The whole side is firm against the radius dish so I will probably shape the bottoms of the side braces while the clamps are still on. Which is the next job
:P
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Thanks, @WezV Still plenty of time to get on the wrong side '50' of @TTony 's odds
In the manner of modern haute cuisine, a deconstructed view of the main components:
And, once the kerfed lining has arrived and I have cut the block and end piece down to height, this is how it will eventually go together, and - eventually - with a 6mm slab of ebony on top
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.... mmmmm, interesting ideas, and he's not really started the build yet, and the customer IS always right.
Yes
There is an irony about the side-to-back joint...because when you rout for the binding (this is planned to have maple binding), you rout most of that joint away!
But if the joint to the back is accurate, it will mean that the top dimensions will be accurate too...and I need that dead flat to the mahogany side piece so that the ebony has half a chance of fitting trouble-free
Pulling the sides up square with some spool clamps, I have a high spot at the extreme side of the main bout. Running a pencil lead from the gaps at the two sides across the high spot should give me a fairly accurate sanding line:
That's better...
So just waiting for the kerfed lining and this can be glued. For those who aren't sure what kerfed lining is, it's this slotted strip that reinforces the joint and acts as the main gluing surfaces between top, sides and back:
And in the meantime, I suppose I have no excuses left not to start on the other side and try to do it again