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I'm trying a few things out on the purpleheart board - still need tidying up. I have cut thumbnail style inlays down the edge and filled with gold glitter and epoxy.
Purple heart is a weird wood, this bit will fade to pale brown within a few years, won't ever be deep purple like some can be, but it does take a stain well and makes a good alternative to ebony once stained and sealed. In fact it can be a bit more stable than most modern stocks of ebony.
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I'm still not sure whether I will use this board or not, but the overall aesthetic will be a mix of gold and nickel for the plastics and metal parts so I'm trying something out here. It's Gretschy, but not
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But a lot more standard veneer thickness has arrived, which should press into shape nicely, - just using more layers
this should be about 3mm thick. Actual Gretsch plates are about 3.5mm. If I add a celluloid wrap or another veneer these will be a similar thickness. Its Maple with Sapele cross grain, so should be very strong when done
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Here it is..
https://youtu.be/WN9FDP12fCY?si=P43FC97M4M_M9u6i
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I've drawn a contour map for the carve. it's quite different to a LP as it does not need to match the neck angle with the carve, and is a lot less dramatic at the waist
i'm going to carve it in some pine to make a form for the vacuum press
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I need to trum that bit by the horn, I didn't leave enough wood to support the router when doing the ledges.
I might go over it with some filler and paint so I can see the carve better before finalising.
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carve tweaked
test fit in the vacuum bag
i shall try with glue later
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I don't have any machine heads yet, but was thinking imperials would be good. I know I have some in somewhere, but not sure if its a full set, and they may be black. They were in a batch of random tuners I was given that were mainly gold or black - not colours i use very often
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Looks like one of the cross grain Sapele layers has shifted and caused a crease. these layers are each made up of 2 pieces to get the dimensions
It's not the end of the world as I have plenty more veneer to get this right, and can use the flawed set to test strength and practice cutting
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Note the ridge crossing the waist, that seems to be a slight overlap of veneer in one of the lower layers. I also need to flatten off the horn section of my mold a bit as that clearly isn't flat, but the rest of the arch is about where I want it.
It's also very strong
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I like Gannet for a name.....
or go the Roger Mellie route and call it "Gunt"... just kidding.....!
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