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In some cases a refret will increase the value. The things that affect value are changed parts, refinishes and non original additions/subtractions.
It's been mentioned before but, would you buy a classic car and want to drive it on its original tyres or run it on its original engine oil??
I have a '55 Junior that was all original when I bought it. Stunning sounding guitar but played like an absolute dog on its original thin frets. I didn't play it cause it was so bad. Then after about 8 months of it staying in its case, I bit the bullet and got it refretted. The different was night and day. It's now my number one guitar, the value as a playing, working guitar has only been increased in my opinion.
Same thing with a '65 Special I bought off here earlier in the year. Incredible tone, original worn frets - dog to play. Refretted it's an absolute killer guitar now and the new owner is very happy.
(formerly miserneil)
If you look at guitars that sit for sale with a silly price tag for ages it's not hard to work out that thier over priced n won't sell regardless of if a so called expert says it's worth ex amount.
What makes me laugh is all this talk about vintage guitars been investments.
Players vs. Collectors grades is about condition and originality of components/modifications.
It's important to distinguish between necessary repairs and modifications. Necessary repairs include a refret. Vintage Guitar Magazine's Price Guide clearly state in their into and 'understanding the prices' section that there is a clear distinction between condition, modifications and repairs, and in particular necessary repairs.
They canvas nearly every vintage dealer in the US for the prices, and their conclusion is that a very well executed minor repair or refret (including swapped nut) will have no more than 5% effect on price - even if Mint and Collectors grade.
More importantly, poor repairs, poor refret or poor neck repairs have a much greater effect. Modifications have a much greater effect. A refinish has a 50% price reduction effect regardless of how good it is.
This isn't my opinion - it's the opinion of dealers in the US who deal day in and day out. Refrets are a necessary part of keeping a guitar playable. Modifications aren't. Refinishes aren't. Minor crack repairs are. That's based on their reality of the prices paid by their punters when buying instruments from them.
But if I dropped 2k on a new guitar today, I wouldn't expect to sell it for anything near that next year. If I spent 2k on a good vintage (and didn't overpay) I would be really surprised if I didn't get my money back if I sold it in a years time
When I buy i always have a price limit in my head of what I realically think it's worth n i never go over that price.
I always pay fair prices but I never over pay and if I don't like the price I simply just walk away.
For example, when i'm looking to purchase a vintage guitar I use this scale, it's not binding but it clarifies it for me:
Collector Grade : Absolute A1, Untouched, Mint, 100% Original (down to the last screw) with OHSC. The guitar is EXACTLY as it came out of the factory in it's respective year. Prices are absolute top end too as they are appealing to a collector (who will, by default, have the funds to pay what is asked) not the great unwashed like me.
Personally, I am not only put off Collector Grade by the price but also as to why the guitar is in pristine condition - it's not been played much, is it a dog/tone turd?
High End Vintage : Excellent or Very Good Condition with some signs of play wear &/or Lacquer checking, All Original, Solder joints untouched, Original pots, Pickups, Electrics. Perhaps a good Refret and or changed nut at the most.
Player Grade Vintage : Any one or more of the following: Refinish to body/neck or both, Filled routes, Changed pots, one or more Changed Pickups (although this is a no no for me), Headstock/Heel crack repair, Refret, Changed Tuners, Changed hardware, Some or all non original plastics. Basically it's anything that has been done to the guitar to make it play and sound the best that it can, including running repairs or changes for the better.
This is where I need to factor in whats been done to the guitar for better or worse against how much they are asking so it's a pretty fluid scale which takes some knowledge of the guitar model in question and personal judgement. For example, I've just bought a 'Player Grade' 1965 Telecaster which is all original bar a filled humbucker route and pro body only refin back to the original colour. An all original, custom colour Telecaster would be touching 5 figures in today's market. WAY out of my means, however, I did pay top end Player Grade money for it from a dealer (who I wouldn't use again) but it did play beautifully and sound incredible which was the major factor in my decision to buy it.
'Beater' : Examples: Anything that has been made up of parts i.e. a Vintage fender neck on a New Body or visa versa or a Gibson junior husk with all new parts, a stripped Tele body with an added forearm contour - you get the picture. The only thing vintage about them might be the wood. These are strictly offer what it is worth to you.
(formerly miserneil)
"Tone turd" - love that saying.
(formerly miserneil)
(formerly miserneil)
because both playability and sound of any guitar old or new is tollally subjective.
so just because one person thinks it's a dog another guy might love it. same with tone/sound. any guitar is only as good as the player.
there's many reason for mint guitars.
been bought to learn on n then put under the bed after giving up.
people sadly passing away.
a lot of guitars back in the day weren't expensive.
imo a lot of this talk about different grades is from dealers trying to screw as much money as they can out of a guitar.
And my reason for the 'grades' post was not that I'm a dealer (which I'm not) it was more to try and put into context the broad context of the banner 'Vintage Guitars' - where all vintage guitars are not equal.
(formerly miserneil)