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I found a spare P-90, but its a slight mismatch on pole spacing. I think i'm going to open up the top of the pickup cover so its a slot rather than holes. that gives me more options for later upgrades, and I think will look pretty cool
Also gonna need top ferrules on the tailpiece as the strings want to cut straight through the wood
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I've found a water based milk paint supplier that has some gorgeous colours, and yours has turned out really well. Obviously don't want to spend loads of cash, but a 50g powder pack is about a fiver and would probably make enough for a guitar... Maybe...
For this final finish I obviously had some runs to deal with. I just scraped them level before rubbing the whole lot back with fine wire wool
I think 50g would be a stretch, but I have been quite wasteful in my approach and nearly used a full 170g bag, which makes a pint of paint.
I think I could have achieved this finish in 2 coats now I know how it works
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I think I'll try it. Happy with the sprays, but actually a brushed finish is more easy for me in my space. I'll test and see how it compares.
I will try it with my water based top coat, see if it clouds up or not. Hopefully not. If so, I may try some of the more common oil finishes, like hemp oil or wax.
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Excellent. Appreciate your help!
Remember I said the afromosia was very oily and tape wouldn't stick to it... well glue doesn't want to either
I only have one glue join on this, for the truss rod. I glued it up pretty much straight after routing and cleaning the slot with some thinners to remove as much oil as possible. I was using titebond original, but the above process normally helps it work well on oily woods
This morning, the stripe has raised itself
The neck is still nicely straight and playing great, but the rod has pushed this out overnight. This needs to come out and be reglued with something a bit stronger.
Thankfully I don't expect to struggle when it comes to remove it and cleaning up the slot
Also that pic shows some sanding scratches I missed on the transition.
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The dust from the afromosia actually feels waxy.
This skunk stripe was a tight friction fit, so no issues there.
With other oily woods a wipe with naphtha or thinners is enough to dry the wood off for long enough to glue it. Then the oiliness slowly returns, or can be added back
Think I might need to bathe this in thinners first. Will probably reglue with epoxy as extra insurance.
The guitar is playing great for now, so I will give it a few weeks to see how everything else settles in, than tackle a whole snag list in one go. Really happy with the ergonomics of it, and it plays great. It's been useful to get my head around this design before I make the hollowbody set neck version.
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Thanks for sharing.
ref oily woods i had huge problems once with a cocobolo fretboard. I tried all the recommended stuff but in the end had to epoxy it on. If it ever needs to come off, it will have to be planed off...
Going for thin Bastogne ( I think??) walnut back and sides and a thick carved american cherry top. Neck will be the stripy paduak shown earlier in the thread, laminated with maple and black veneer. fretboard will be the snakewood. I think the plan for the finish is a cherry red lacquer with some nice white binding. the woods will help give a two tone look
All prepped, ready for cutting, and hopefully bending, this weekend
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Need to shape the internal blocks to fit now
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I've also cut the cherry top to rough shape
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This is how the board started, with a lot more sap on the other side
The one behind is some richlite for another project
I picked up a radius jig from Radius Dish UK as i didn't want to do this board by hand. Worked really well and a lot cheaper than some of the other options
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