Car tinkering

FX_Munkee

chillidoggy said:

I'm seriously considering getting a mid-rise hydraulic lift for doing maintenance on the Lotus. It's so low, you can't see for shit underneath it, and jacking cars up is a pain. The more I look at it, the more I realise what a bastard it is to get to anything.

I know a couple of people who swear by these.
Unfortunately they only come in blue, so would clash with your floor paint

Edit: ooh look they do one specially for stacking broken Lotus's (Lotii?)

chillidoggy

Oooooh, that might be a useful tool, thanks!

I was looking at this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CAR-LIFT-MID-RISE-SCISSOR-MOBILE-PS3600-/321406748185?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item4ad555c619#ht_1037wt_905

I know a bloke who has an Esprit who wants to sell his, because he's getting a four post ramp (!), but the small one you posted the link for might be suitable, and a bit cheaper, and a damn sight lighter!

As for the colour, I can always repaint the floor blue!

FX_Munkee

Here's a chap I know who tested one out:-
linky
He liked it a lot.

Deadman

chillidoggy;311675" said:

Deadman said:

I refurbed my alloys this weekend. They're Ford 18" snowflakes so they're a nice wheel but were kerbed badly from the previous owner. Had a badly filled repair on the rear wheel arch that I've refilled too, it took me 4 hours to get it perfect. It's ready for a bit of blending and relacquering action now. As it's silver I hope the painting gods are on my side!





One of my favourite wheels, those. I'd be tempted to buy anything with a set of them fitted!

Yeah I've always like the Vauxhall ones too. Nice wheels. My faves are the Audi black edition at the moment mind!

Deadman

FX_Munkee;311639" said:

The painting gods are a vengeful bunch, and the silver one is possibly the nastiest of the lot.

Anyway, good luck.

I know! I'll have to ask for a bag of talent with my paint order that's for sure. I might take a couple of pics if it turns out ok.

chillidoggy

FX_Munkee said:

Here's a chap I know who tested one out:-
linky
He liked it a lot.

I checked that out with one of the mechanically-minded Lotus boys, he wasn't so keen using it with an Esprit because of the low front splitter, it'll end up hitting the deck when it gets tilted. Nothing else wrong with it, though.

As it is, the guy who's buying a four-post ramp has just messaged me with a very tempting price for his mid-rise ramp. I'm hoping for purchase approval from my domestic procurement department shortly. Should the application bid be successful, it's simply a matter of how the fuck it get it home, it's very heavy, and pretty big, too.

VimFuego

could you not just put it in the back of the lotus?

 

 

then call a recovery truck to take the lotus home?

chillidoggy

Hmmm, an interesting theory Vim, but I think if I did that, the car would end up about as thick as a fag-paper, because the lift weighs an eye-watering 430kg!

Van_Hayden

So buying the lotus was a cunning move to secure domestic approval for more (now essential) garage apperatus??

FX_Munkee

chillidoggy said:

FX_Munkee said:

Here's a chap I know who tested one out:-
linky
He liked it a lot.

I checked that out with one of the mechanically-minded Lotus boys, he wasn't so keen using it with an Esprit because of the low front splitter, it'll end up hitting the deck when it gets tilted. Nothing else wrong with it, though.

As it is, the guy who's buying a four-post ramp has just messaged me with a very tempting price for his mid-rise ramp. I'm hoping for purchase approval from my domestic procurement department shortly. Should the application bid be successful, it's simply a matter of how the fuck it get it home, it's very heavy, and pretty big, too.

You can lock the ramp off at any angle I think, ie before the nose hits the deck (Many low MX-5's with front spoilers, mine included). How stable it would be then is debatable though...
Anyway it sounds like you've got a better deal (and GEAS*) with the post lift. Have you checked Hermes for a postage quote?

*Garage Equipment Acquisition Syndrome.

chillidoggy

Well spotted, FX. As I've lost interest in GAS, GEAS has now become the latest addiction. I'm off to buy a new worklamp, and a car-creeper later today. It's like I've found God. Or beer, more likely.

The bloke who's selling it has offered to deliver it for the cost of the fuel. It doesn't get better than that, methinks!

Deadman

Well, the rear quarter respray was a success. I've never faded in a silver car before so it came as a surprise that it came out like it did. Gonna mop it and give the old girl a good wash and polish this morning.

Emp_Fab

I need to patch up Mrs Fab's Primera with silver.  I've never really sprayed metallic before that wasn't a two-pack lacquer job.  How did you do yours ?  Spray, flatten with ten billion grit wet & dry then T-Cut it up or what ?

chillidoggy

/\ This I have to see. Any chance of you doing a video and sticking it up on You've Been, sorry, YouTube , mate?

Deadman

Emp_Fab said:

I need to patch up Mrs Fab's Primera with silver.  I've never really sprayed metallic before that wasn't a two-pack lacquer job.  How did you do yours ?  Spray, flatten with ten billion grit wet & dry then T-Cut it up or what ?

It's a complicated process if you don't have access to professional gear Emps. I wouldn't contemplate it if I didn't have access to everything. But if you do fancy it (I really don't know what experience level you are so apologies if I'm teaching you how to suck eggs) here goes:

1. Make good your repair and prime with 4:1 high build primer. My wheel arch was quite badly dented and it took me 4 hours of filling, blocking, filling, blocking to get it straight. Keep an eye out for pin holes in the filler and skim 'em out if you see any as they will spoil the job.
2. Flat the primer with 600 wet and dry just past the point of repair.
3. Mask to definitive seams and soft edge other areas (I took the top of the area to be sprayed to exactly central above the door seams, same on the sill/door bottoms). Remove any rubbers, indicators or door latches at this point.
4. Key all areas with fine scotchbrite taking care not to 'scratch' the existing lacquer (guaranteed they will show up when your re-lacquer on a silver car).
5. Degrease (not with a harsh thinner, I used a proper pre-paint panel wipe) and tack/blow off. I always wet the floor at this stage.
6. Apply several light coats of your silver basecoat to the repaired area. This is the skilled part. If you don't 'lay' it on right it will 'halo', become too dusty, streak, etc.etc. Avoid using fast thinner in your basecoat and always use a standard thinner. If you're using water based you'll find it easier than solvent based. Tack the whole lot off again and take care not to leave any tack rag nap behind.
7. Immediately apply 2 pack lacquer taking care not to spray too close to the points where you will 'lose' your edge (top and bottom of doors).
8. Fade out your lacquer edge with (you guessed it) fade out thinners.
9. I always demask while everything is still soft but touch dry then bake at 60c for half an hour. Mine was out of the bay 1 hour after I sprayed it.
10. Buff it after 24 hours.Total cost for me was about £60. It would cost  around £500 in a bodyshop.

Like I said, I wouldn't tackle it if you don't have access to the right gear or experience. If you use aerosols it will end up looking like it has been sprayed with an aerosol.

Deadman

...that's the longest post I've ever written!...

boogieman

Never seen anyone manage to get a decent match on metallics using just rattle cans tbh.

@Deadman you sound like you've had a lot of experience and the right tools for the job. I did re spray my 1973 Rover once, but I used cellulose paint ( when you could still get it) which is a lot more forgiving than modern stuff, plus it was solid white, the easiest colour to spray.

Deadman

I sprayed a Range Rover many years ago too @boogieman. Those old tail gates used to rot like hell eh? It was before the days of access to a shotblaster for me so I had to grind and fill it. Pig of a job. I used gallons of paint too (obviously!)
Solid colours are easier I agree. I'm chuffed to bits with this latest repair mind as like I say, I've never actually tackled a silver fade in job before.

boogieman

Mine was a P6, not a Range Rover. It was actually a great car to learn bodywork on, every panel unbolts, (even the roof if you want to) so it was very easy to work on.

chillidoggy

Deadman said:

Emp_Fab said:

I need to patch up Mrs Fab's Primera with silver.  I've never really sprayed metallic before that wasn't a two-pack lacquer job.  How did you do yours ?  Spray, flatten with ten billion grit wet & dry then T-Cut it up or what ?

It's a complicated process if you don't have access to professional gear Emps. I wouldn't contemplate it if I didn't have access to everything. But if you do fancy it (I really don't know what experience level you are so apologies if I'm teaching you how to suck eggs) here goes:

1. Make good your repair and prime with 4:1 high build primer. My wheel arch was quite badly dented and it took me 4 hours of filling, blocking, filling, blocking to get it straight. Keep an eye out for pin holes in the filler and skim 'em out if you see any as they will spoil the job.
2. Flat the primer with 600 wet and dry just past the point of repair.
3. Mask to definitive seams and soft edge other areas (I took the top of the area to be sprayed to exactly central above the door seams, same on the sill/door bottoms). Remove any rubbers, indicators or door latches at this point.
4. Key all areas with fine scotchbrite taking care not to 'scratch' the existing lacquer (guaranteed they will show up when your re-lacquer on a silver car).
5. Degrease (not with a harsh thinner, I used a proper pre-paint panel wipe) and tack/blow off. I always wet the floor at this stage.
6. Apply several light coats of your silver basecoat to the repaired area. This is the skilled part. If you don't 'lay' it on right it will 'halo', become too dusty, streak, etc.etc. Avoid using fast thinner in your basecoat and always use a standard thinner. If you're using water based you'll find it easier than solvent based. Tack the whole lot off again and take care not to leave any tack rag nap behind.
7. Immediately apply 2 pack lacquer taking care not to spray too close to the points where you will 'lose' your edge (top and bottom of doors).
8. Fade out your lacquer edge with (you guessed it) fade out thinners.
9. I always demask while everything is still soft but touch dry then bake at 60c for half an hour. Mine was out of the bay 1 hour after I sprayed it.
10. Buff it after 24 hours.Total cost for me was about £60. It would cost  around £500 in a bodyshop.

Like I said, I wouldn't tackle it if you don't have access to the right gear or experience. If you use aerosols it will end up looking like it has been sprayed with an aerosol.

Alternatively, you could just procrastinate about it for a few years, by which time it'll be a scrapper, which will save you the trouble.